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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:38 pm 
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I managed to crack the lining when I glued in the backing for my soundport and the cauls weren't quite perfect. gaah I tried to clean them up ended up over-sanding them a bit on the top and bottom. I've learned a bit about how much you can sand reverse-kerf linings which turns out to be not much.

So far I've thought about (1) try to remove and replace the lining, (2) Use a strip of veneer to dress it up, or (3) do nothing, chalk it up to experience, and just move on.

I would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations.

The crack is hard to see with the low resolution it's on the right side below the ebony backup. The sandthrough is pretty easy to spot though.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:06 pm 
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I would probably do nothing, unless it is an eysore through the soundhole or soundports. Its hard to tell how much it will stick out, but my guess is not much.

If you have not glued the back on, that basswood reverse kerf stuff is pretty easy to slice off with an instrument makers knife like we have been talking about in another thread.

I'm not much of a neat freak about the inside, so i would probably leave it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:26 pm 
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I completely agree with Jordan and think that you are fine as is.

BTW a tip that I learned from Lance that greatly reduced any reverse kerf lining breakage for me is to soak them in very hot water for 60 seconds, pad dry and install immediately. Other than the pink bathtub ring from the Mahogany Bob's your uncle. :)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:43 pm 
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If you're really concerned back it with a strip of whatever (spruce or something) otherwise I'd leave it. No one's gonna look in there and if you try to remove it and redo them you risk creating more problems.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 8:39 pm 
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OK, #3 is it, I'll just leave it. [:Y:] As several of you noted it's not that noticeable (except to me - hah).

Hesh, I'll surely be using the hot water trick next time although I did figure out how to make joins in the lining that are very hard to see.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:29 pm 
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Not to be a stickler for details, but your linings are backwards. Was it intentional???
In any event you shouldn’t have any issues with it

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:31 pm 
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Rich Schnee wrote:
Not to be a stickler for details, but your linings are backwards. Was it intentional???
In any event you shouldn’t have any issues with it


That's why it's called "reversed kerfling" because it's meant to be glued that way. It looks cleaner and the strip actually help to make the side stiffer.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:44 pm 
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Ya, sorry Rich S. It was totally intentional [:Y:]

It really stiffens up the rims using the reverse kerf linings.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:04 pm 
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Thanks…Learn something new everyday.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 1:24 am 
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No question; I would burn it. You have completely ruined what might have been a decent guitar.

Just kidding. Stucturally it shoud be fine. Don't make perfect the enemy of the good.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:41 am 
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Steve,

For future guitars you may want to think about inletting the side braces into the linings rather than a butt joint as in the picture you posted. A side crack at the join would not be fun.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 7:25 am 
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burn it wow7-eyes


For future guitars you may want to think about inletting the side braces into the linings rather than a butt joint


Good advice Dave. I will definitely do it different next time. I initially decided against the soundport since this is my first acoustic but changed my mind after the linings were in. The rest of the sides have bias-tape reinforcements running the full height every 5 in.

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