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 Post subject: Which binding bit set?
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:50 pm 
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Koa
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I know this has been covered - but darned if I can find it by doing a search.

I'm looking to purchase some binding bits (a set) and see the following options:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_t ... t_Set.html
$86.65 for the set

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproduc ... earing+Kit
$161.75 for the set (a couple more bits than the SM set I think

I know I have seen other options - but I can't seem to locate them right now.

What would you purchase (or have purchased) and why one over the other?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:40 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Paul bro I have both...... and the reason is that my well used Stew-Mac set started getting dull and I also wanted more bearing choices so I purchased the LMI set.

I guess that it all comes down to how many bearings you want since both sets are excellent.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:50 pm 
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I would get the LMI set, the SM doesn't have enough bearings to be versatile. I do not think the bearings are interchangeable BTW.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:49 pm 
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You can purchase a 1" diameter rabbet bit from
Woodworkersupply.com here:
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=819-612

that sells for $20 and it is Catalog# 819-612. The bearings from LMI will fit this rabbet bit.

I have this bit, the LMI, and the one I used to sell. This bit matches my bearings and the LMI bearings. The difference between the bits is the height of the tip of the bit is about 5mm from the top of the cutter to the bottom of the bearing on the LMI bit. This allows you to cut your binding first then your purfling channel and not have to worry about the bearing falling into the binding channel. The other bits only have about 1mm of space. But either should work. Good luck!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:40 pm 
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What Tracy said. Wow! That's a $22 savings on the bit!

Thanks for the tip.

Mike


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:33 pm 
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If I had to buy a set I'd also go with the LMI set for the same reasons as Laurent also that I've heard (this is only heard, not first hand experience) that the Stew Mac bits can be problematic when wanting to cut the binding channel first. Something about the bearing not sitting low enough. Check with those who know though, don't take my word on it.

Mind you, you probably don't need all the bits that come with the LMI set, so pick the ones you will need and source the bit from Tracey's link. Then you could also go to a local bearing company and ask them about the bearings you want.

If you do some searching, you'll find what you want at a better price, but it will be more work to do it. There's the trade off.

Hesh Bro, you can sharpen router bits you know ;)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:03 pm 
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Rod True wrote:
Mind you, you probably don't need all the bits that come with the LMI set, so pick the ones you will need and source the bit from Tracey's link. Then you could also go to a local bearing company and ask them about the bearings you want.
;)


What Rod meant (and I know he meant this) was you do not need all the bearings. But still, its hard to know what you will need. I just bought the kit. With the SM set, there is a brass washer used to push the bearing further down (I think) so it stays out of the binding channel.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:04 pm 
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OK - so the LMI has the advantage based on the comments.

So.... what bearings should I get as a standard set?

I guess I'm wondering what you most commonly use for binding and purfling.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 1:16 pm 
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Paul:

If i did the math correctly, I think there is only about a $6 difference in buying the individual bearings that come with the kit and the bit, vs buying the kit. So for me I just bought the bit and then a couple bearings in common binding and purfling thicknesses. I figured if i wanted to have some more elaborate purfling scheme in the future I would buy more when I ordered something else.

So I went with the LMI bit and a couple of bearings.

Darrin


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 3:08 pm 
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Ok - so my next question is - assuming a .080 binding and .040 purfling:

What size bearings do I need, to compensate for the glue swell? .090 and .130 (binding + purfling cut)?

StewMac says their bearings include an extra .012 for swell. So you order the bearing in the exact size of your binding or purfling and the "extra" takes glue swell into account.

SMI doesn't state anything like that - so I'm assuming I need to add on for glue swell.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 5:14 pm 
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Paul what glue are you using for bindings?

I ask because the factoring for glue swell is for water based glues and not something that I would think that you need to consider if you are wicking with thin CA (after sealing the top with shellac of course). I use Titebond for binding so the glue joint thickness and wood swell is something that I have to deal with but I think.... that CA (thin) users get a pass here.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 5:29 pm 
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I would expect that I would use Titebond. So swellage (as opposed to shrinkage) will be an issue.

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