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 Post subject: Calipers - Buying Advice
PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 1:37 pm 
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First name: George
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I don't know much about calipers, except that the cheap piece of junk I currently own is worth even less than the meager amount I paid for it at Harbor Freight. I've decided that I want to buy myself a good model. Pros and cons of dial or digital styles, advice on brands, where to buy, etc., would be greatly appreciated.

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George :-)

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 1:41 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Starrett, Brown & Sharpe, Mitutoyo. I prefer vernier to dial or digital, but I'm probably in the minority there. I'd go Ebay and look for one that is said to be in new condition and is returnable.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 2:15 pm 
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I have old digital mitutoyo (80's or early 90's vintage) and an even older dial mitutoyo I pinched from my dad. I'm sure the newer ones are better, but the old digital runs through batteries like mad. Therefore, I find myself keeping the dial one near the bench.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 2:27 pm 
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I’ve been using 6” digital calipers lately. My newest pair can be shut off after use and this seems to save battery life a bit. I need to measure in millimeters once in a while too and with digital, it’s a button push away.
Keep some batteries handy though as you will get used to using your calipers regularly.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 4:36 pm 
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Location: Colorado, USA
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As mention, Starret are TOP notch but very pricey.

Digital are nice, but dials never run out of batteries and are very easy to read. Vernier are take a little bit to learn how to use, but they are a little cheaper for any given brand and there are no moving parts to ever break inside (not that I have ever had a dial calipers break on me... )

I recently bought a pair of Clarke 6" Vernier calipers from Sears - found out, they were made in China which is apparent in the quality of craftsmanship. They were covered in that nasty brown oil/sludge that they ship things in from China to keep corrosion down while on the ocean. But, after they are cleaned up, they still work fine - but will never be collectable or heirloom tools for sure. I would look for an older, undamaged Starret if you are pretty serious about quality


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 4:50 pm 
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Regarding what's junk and what's gold.... I think there is a modest amount of technique involved here. I have the cheapo HF digitals, and I find that if I measure to the same depth (I use the ground-down knife edge at the tip for consistancy) that I can get accurate and uniform results. One good micrometer (analog) lets me compare occasionally, so I know I'm handleing the instrument consistantly.

I'm trying to say that I strive for the same FEEL of the caliper on the material, each time, so I know I'm holding things square and parallel.

Hope that makes sense.

Dan

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 5:07 pm 
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Thanks for the replies. I'll be on the lookout. One of my biggest complaints about my current digital model is that it burns through batteries very quickly. There is no on/off button, so I think it is always on--even when the readout is dark.

Anyone have any experience with the Stew-Mac model? How does it stack up against Starrett, etc.? I wonder if the little notch they've added for measuring fret height is a worthwhile feature.

Thanks again,
George :-)

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 5:36 pm 
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Either Stewmac or LMI sells some very good German dial calipers, perfect for measuring tops and backs. I think they're $200 or so. I have them an don't anticipate ever needing or wanting another set.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 5:36 pm 
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I have Starrett, Mitutoyo, and Fowler. They all work well, but I prefer the Mitutoyo.

I also have a set that that I got at Woodcraft that read in fractions of an inch, in addition to thousandths of an inch and metric.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 6:17 pm 
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Just got a 6" digital Mitutoyo for Christmas. I have been using an old vernier, which worked quite well, but I was constantly lowering my glasses so I could read the scale. I decided to get something a little easier on the eyes. Mine came from EBay. Brand new for about 30-40% of new. Very nice unit.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 6:21 pm 
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I have bought mine from a Cdn place similar to Grizzly called Busy bee - about 20 bucks on sale, dial version. LeeValley also has decent dial calipers for about 30 - accuracy within a thou, close enough for woodworking.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 5:32 pm 
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George L wrote:
One of my biggest complaints about my current digital model is that it burns through batteries very quickly. There is no on/off button,
I have a calculator like that! Real nice to work with but eats batteries. I pull one of the batteries when not in use. It doesn't even affect the stored memory don't know how it does that.

George L wrote:

Anyone have any experience with the Stew-Mac model? How does it stack up against Starrett, etc.? I wonder if the little notch they've added for measuring fret height is a worthwhile feature.


If you call or email SM they will probably tell you who makes their calipers. Wouldn't be surprised if it's Starrett/B&S/Mitutoyo!

I prefer dial calipers myself. The digitals are great for comparative by zeroing, even though you could do the same with a dial.

My old mitutoyo could read in tenths, no kidding! I used to piss off Al, an old Hungarian toolmaker, by doing that. He would pull out his mic and check...which pissed him off even more!

Sometimes it's great being a butthead! laughing6-hehe

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:35 pm 
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I have three pairs. A starrett, a brown & Sharpe, and Mitutyo. All are very nice. I prefer the Brown and Sharpe just cause it feels right to me but all are very good. All of them I bought used on ebay for less than $50 each.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:23 pm 
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I keep an $20 dial calipers around for general use and have a digital Mitutoyo that I keep boxed for when I need more precise measurements.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:42 pm 
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The nice thing about the Stewmac 6" caliper is an automatic shutoff to save batteries. The indent at the end to measure fret crowns is a slight minus for me. You have to re-zero anytime you switch from thickness to depth gauge.

I also have a cheapo set and it has always been accurate to .0005" when checked against a known refference. I use mine constantly and the thought of dropping a $100 - $200 pair keeps me with the cheapies.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:43 am 
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I've been working in shops for over 40 years, had my own shop for 30, and have used Mitutoyo, Starrett, B&S, Etalon, Helios, etc. The only type I buy now is Browne and Sharpe dial calipers, although I think Etalons and a couple of others are close.

The mitutoyos have tips and jaws that are too long and lightweight and they don't seem to last as long as the B&S, especially when left in the shop where they can be used. I did use the Mit. digitals for years and while they were fairly reliable they all read differently, close but not exact. I had 4 pairs laying around for my employees to use and it was a constant battle to get a constant reading. On the Mit dial calipers the tips and jaws always spread at the ends with constant use. I have had trouble getting a repeatable measurement between Mit calipers, mics and a toolmakers scope on the same part and that is my main complaint on Mitutoyo. Probably close enough for most but I was working to +/- .0001. I do have several sets of the Mit digitals still sitting in their boxes that I haven't use for the last 8 years but still use a set of 24" digitals that I trust it to +/-.002.

Starretts are nice but the edges always felt a bit sharp in my hands. Starrettt does make the best fine line, easy to read scales that I have found.

B&S feel good, gives repeatable measurments and will stand up to every day use in a shop. Dials are easy to read and unless abused to not have to be constantly zero'd.

Ebay, and I would look at the guys in ebay stores who buy out whole shops to resell also.

Tim


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:46 pm 
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First name: George
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Thanks again for all the replies. This is very helpful information.

George :-)

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