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At this point I have not carved my own neck yet. The carving part doesn't scare me, but the neck joint does... I'm not sure how this is done. Some of the jigs I've seen that hold the guitar body in place while the mortise is cut look kinda elaborate. Are there some relatively simple (and easy) ways to cut a mortise and tennen? ...How about some photos so I can see how its done?

Good topic- I'm in a similar situation....Red Books are scant on the subject, Cumpiano shows a mortise/tenon that appears cut by hand and with barrel bolts. Would like to cut a mortise and tenon with hand tools only....or dovetail. thanks.

What you guys need is a Woolson neck tenon jig which has been available in the past as plans and you build the jig yourself.

I am not sure where to get the plans these days but hopefully someone will know and let us all know?

There is really nothing simpler than a neck mortise fixture. It is a template with a cutout the width of the mortise bit guide bushing and length of desired mortise plus 1/2 the dia of the guide bushing sandwiched between two pieces of ply with centering lugs to square it. Your plung router rides on top of the template and the busing rides aginst the edge of the template. It is hard for me to see how anything simpler can be devised. It needs to be adjustable to the depth of the body and able to square to the body.

A mortise and tenon is a very easy joint and all you really need to make it is a sharp saw and chisel. Of course, you can get as eloborate with jigs as you want and these will improve accuracy and repeatability, but this joint doesn't really justify it, IMO. Now a dovetail is a little more demanding in regards to fit.

While I would agree that the joint itself is simple, achieving the right angle is not so simple.

Since using the Woolson jig, I have had a much easier time getting the proper neck angle. Check with Lance if you are interested in the jig...he may still have plans available. It's easy to build and simple to use...one of my favorites.

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

Hesh, Michael, Barry, J.J.- Thanks for the responses....I will try to find a Woolson jig drawing. I really like the idea of a mortise/tenon joint that is handsawn, and chiseled to fit....something relaxing about a thirty minute handbuilt venture, versus an 8 minute router session.

Only built 13 steel strings over the past 4 years as a hobby, and trying to get through a few obstacles for next years builds (neck joint is #1)....been buying 'em pre-carved. Carving is not an issue...carved 5 ukulele necks, no problem (butt joint w/dowels for neck joint)...steel string needs a stronger joint IMHO.

I'm going for hand sawn/chiseled until/unless the Woolson shows up....THANKS!!!

There are lots of butt joint bolt on steel strings out there severl renouned builders use butt joint.
Two 1/4 20un bolts and threaded inserts will provid plenty of sheer strength.

It is really pretty simple to chisle an mortise if you keep your chisels good a keen. It is really no differnt than any other mortise and tenon joint in woodworking (barring a tappered dovetail of course) A straight tenon takes a straight mortise. However if I was hand carving a mortise I would do it before the neck block was glued to the body. That way if you goof you just build a new block

We have some of those plans. shoot Lance a PM and he can give you the goods on how to get them.

Regarding the jigs. I use the one from Luthier Tool (http://www.luthiertool.com). It is sort of like the Fox/Woolson jig... but on steroids. Not only does it give you the correct neck angle but it also has a side to side adjustment so the neck set is pretty much perfect right off the jig. Provided you prepped the surface of the body first it is literally about a 10 minute job setting the neck once it is out of the jig.

I love it... but it is one of those tools that is an "investment"

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

I have a completed Woolson jig for sale...PM me if you're interested!

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

See if any of these photos give you inspiration. All router cuts are done with top bearing flush cut pattern bits. Two passes: half depth and final depth. Takes about two minutes for each procedure.

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Hank Mauel