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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:11 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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filled with Sanding Sealer as in Zinsser's 100% wax free Universial Sanding Sealer? not tat that matters much just want to be sure that is what you ment.

Well tha tis a pretty big sand through. ods are there will be a some what noticable color variance when your through. I suspect that recolor with shellac and refinish the area is best you can do.


Now there is some disagreement with what I am about to say here but I would never put any epoxy over shellac. my experiance has shown repeaded adhesion issues. On the other hand Shellac adheeres well over Zpoxy or any other epoxy.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:24 pm 
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I would strip the neck and refinish…

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 1:41 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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yep i would have to agree Laurent. the odds of not seeing a color varient in the finish repair are slim.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:29 am 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Yes on the Zinsser. Laurent, I was wondering how long it would be before someone told me to strip and redo. Looks like another lesson along the way ...

Thanks for the input, guys ...

Filippo


One other thought, you could strip and re-do just the heel area a little darker to make it look like a violin neck. You might have to re-color the head stock darker to make it look right though.

Never tried it, just a thought though.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:07 am 
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I was never successful at matching the colour on a sand through, even on a non stained neck… Maybe others have had more luck. Interesting heel cap shape BTW.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:14 am 
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I've had some luck with epoxy darkening an area where I've sanded through. Did you use the same grit sandpaper in your effort to refinish? The heel is the worst area to match, but if you use the same sandpaper you used prior to finishing you might end up with something less noticeable. The area you are working on may have become smoother than the surrounding area from the extra sanding. Epoxy has a lot of wetting ability and might do the trick. . . but I'd probably cut my losses and refinish the whole thing.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:27 am 
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Burst the heel

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 2:45 pm 
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I have restored many an antique and color matched, but it takes a lot of effort and is usually something that isn't that uniform in color. I'd say strip it.

But one thing first: From the photo it looks like the shellac might have hazed and thus whitened. Is that not possibly the case? I don't know all the materials that were used, but I've had shellac haze like that and kill the color under it. Just a thought. Not that it makes the repair any easier but...


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:56 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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Joe Sabin wrote:
I have restored many an antique and color matched, but it takes a lot of effort and is usually something that isn't that uniform in color. I'd say strip it.

But one thing first: From the photo it looks like the shellac might have hazed and thus whitened. Is that not possibly the case? I don't know all the materials that were used, but I've had shellac haze like that and kill the color under it. Just a thought. Not that it makes the repair any easier but...


it is rare to have shellac haze I belive he just sanded to bare wood.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:46 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Michael Dale Payne wrote:
Joe Sabin wrote:
I have restored many an antique and color matched, but it takes a lot of effort and is usually something that isn't that uniform in color. I'd say strip it.

But one thing first: From the photo it looks like the shellac might have hazed and thus whitened. Is that not possibly the case? I don't know all the materials that were used, but I've had shellac haze like that and kill the color under it. Just a thought. Not that it makes the repair any easier but...


it is rare to have shellac haze I belive he just sanded to bare wood.


True, and probably just as hard to fix.


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