Official Luthiers Forum!

For those that might want to adapt their Luthier Suppliers centerline finder and bridge locator to index the saddle slot instead of the front of the bridge as I did here is what I did. Works great!!! Since the front of my saddle is curved not flat. I placed 2 3/16" pins in the locating attachment in the location of the ends of my saddle slot so that the pins were flush with the edges of the slot. I then marked the scale length plus compensation on the main beam of the fixture as a reference point to locate the saddle slot instead of the front edge of the bridge. here is a detail sketch

Michael, that is soo cool!

Hey L.S. - I see a future version of your jig with holes pre-drilled for the common scale lengths...

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Gabriel Regalbuto
Carlsbad, California
Freedom 35!

I have used mine with great success installing bolt necks on electrics I am building(really, much of it just assembling) and I suggested the "WhiteHorse Guitars" Option be added. I am about to apply a PSA tape measure, graduated to a 32nd. I used the bridge attachment to mark the leading edge and centerline of pivot screws on a vintage style Strat Trem- set my 25 1/4" to the holes and installed dead on perpendicular to the neck/body centerline. Having the measure built in ought to be a nice addition.With the right presby lenses I can still split to a 64th by eye. It is a great jig. Thanks, T. Mike T.

To bee clear the pins are in the removable bridge location attachment not in the beam the pins have no reation to a fixed scale lenght they just hold the bridge square to the centerline with no play and allow you to move the bridge and locating fixture as a unit. I could have used the pin hoses in the bridge instead of the saddle if I wanted to. The fixture is clear you scribe a line for the scale on th main fixture and move the attachment and brige as a unit till the fron of the saddle at the 1st string position ligned up with the scribed scale lenght mark. I have 3 different scale lengths scribed on minethe point of the pins is to positivly align the bridge to the center line and not allow it to tilt on way or the other.

Great idea Michael. May I ask what compensation length you use and does it change with different scale lengths or stay the same? So far I've just used 25.4 scale.

I also bought one of these from Tracy a while back and would like to adapt your method onto his system. Do you use the rubber hair tie thingy that straps it to the main beam or do you use something else? It seems like using the rubberband hair tie might allow the bridge to cant one way or the other. What's your thoughts?

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"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

Nice work Michael and thanks for sharing it with us. Shouldn't the call-out for the locating pins be for 3/32" pins instead of 3/16"?? YMMV...

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Peter

.1 compensation for 25.4 scale.

the location attachment rides on the high part of my bridge with this adaption. the hair tie and outer portion of the attachment are clear in heigth of the wings so this is no issue and would not be a problem on a martin style bridge either. my attachment fits pretty darn tight to my main beam so there is no lateral play at all,

One thing i should say is if I had it to do over I would have used the pin holes as it would have be simpler to square the hole locations for the pins with the addapter. but it was just a matter of carfully marking the saddle angle and saddle edges so it is not that tuff.

yes i guess I really should hav said 2.3812mm

I think your are right on about using the bridge pin holes for accuracy. Using the guide pins in the saddle slot may not be as accurate if one may decide to use a through-slot saddle or different saddle angle. Once again, nice work.

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"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

Funny you should say that as I have a commission for a SJ that the client wants separate saddle intonated for standard and one step slack tuning. to insure i have plenty of saddle to intonate one to standard tuning and another to the slack tuning i am using a 5/32" saddle, so I have to make a second location attachment because of the wider saddle. i will be using the pin holes on that one. that said if you are carful and get the pins in right location. Indexing the saddle slot is more appropriately accurate as that is the point of the process. To locate the saddle in the right position and location. if the saddle position and location is right the rest of the bridge is of no consequence.

if anyone uses the pin holes as the index point use the outer holes. the greater the spread between holes the greater the accuaracy you wil have. The closer the two indexing pins the greater the varance of miss alighnment a small amout of slack in the pins to the holes will make.

VERY worthwhile modification! I like it! I've yet to order the CL finder yet, but I most definitely will before my next neck job, especially after seeing this.

Thanks.

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Wes McMillian
Santo, TX
http://www.wesmcmillian.com

Anybody tried to make this jig or a copy? I've got a lot more time than money.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Ricardo, this is one of those jigs that you really just need to bite the bullet and buy it. The accuracy and finish are worth it. Bear in mind that the mechanism that is used to keep it centered over tapered sides is very difficult to replicate in a hobby shop. But if you are of the mind, you can look at mine.

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Aoibeann

If you hafe the capabilities to accuratly machine lexan it wold not be hard to replicate but you are goinging to spend $25 in materials plus the labor to build it. Maintainig the accuracy is not real hard depending on your ability to machine lexan but for $40 more, I mean reaally, this is cheep for it's quaility!!!! This is the best centering fixture I have seen.

Recardo....I saw this one on Frets.com:

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier ... inder.html

Oops...sorry about that Ricardo. I did know how to spell your name...but sometimes my typing leaves something to be desired!

Thanks Alan, Looks like I can make that jig. I have a bunch of lexan sitting around.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

You will need to recess the head of the sliding bolt of the two scissor rails so that the main beam sets on the fretboard and Like L.S. I would use nylon bots. Keep in mind that how accurately this works will be dependent on how accurate you are with your slots and channels of the scissor mechanisms. plus I do not know if this design was patented or not but it would be very courteous of you to check with Tony. In particularly since Luthier Supplier is a long time sponsor of the forum. Odds are he would be glad to give insight as well.

Michael, the frets.com version of this jig does not use the scissor mechanism of the commercial version.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Get the upgraded bridge squarer, which locks to the jig with a knurled nut.

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https://soundcloud.com/jeffreylsuits/he ... -runnin-13

No advantage to me as it is still designed to to index a bridge with a flat front edge. My bridge has a rounded front edge (20"R). Plus maintaning scale length location was not the reason for the adaptation. The reason was to be able to hold firmly my rounded faced bridge square to centerline with no effort and constantly repeatable. I never had issue with hold things at the scale length as the standard adapters i have are good tight fits to my beam. the side easy enough but hold the location unless you pull or push on them. That said the lock scew is not a bad addition.