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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:44 am 
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Walnut
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Any mandolin builders want to share their opinion on wood binding for an F5-style mandolin?
I'm about to start in on one, building from Roger Siminoff's book.
I'd love to do wood bindings, but thinking about bending and fitting wood binding into that scroll is the stuff of nightmares.
Then again, it ought to be easier than bending the sides right?

I'm using big leaf maple for the back and sides.
If I decide to go through with it, does any one have a suggestion for species?
I was thinking a curly maple, but perhaps there's something that would be easier to work with?
Anyone with specific experience/guidance in this arena?

Thanks a million. -Dan

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:52 am 
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Walnut
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Make sure you have no run out in the binding material and then make yourself a backer jig like this and you should be fine.

Image

Image

Not as easy as plastic but worth the extra hassle IMHO.

Greg N


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:54 am 
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Hi Dan,
I recently finished an F-5 with plastic bindings (It's the second F-5 I've built)
To put itin no uncertain terms "I'd rather swim through beer with my mouth closed" than build one with wood bindings!!
Bending the binding might be "easier" than bending the sides (don't forget the tightest part of the scroll isn't bent -it's cut from the block-so I would say that part would be harder) But what about all the mitres?

I know its been done..... I've even seen someone do abalone purfling around the edge.

You never know untill you try-Good luck.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 2:35 pm 
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I only built a couple of F5's too, but none with wooden bindings. If you do it, I can pretty much guarantee you that you will regret it when you're about half way done and you'll be embarrassed by it by the time you finish your second F5 (even if you thought it looked OK at the time).

Sorry if I sound discouraging, but unless you are a natural born instrument making genius I think what you are proposing is very difficult do well. There are about 15 miters on a standard F5, non of which are right angle. Curly maple is pretty unforgiving, so unless you can make those miters fit is very tightly there will be a telltale line there staring at you.

Actually, unless you've made an A-style or two already I would advise you to that first to get familiar with most of the processes. It'd difficult enough, I promise! The instrument will sound pretty much the same, the strap button won't be as fancy of course. ;)

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:36 pm 
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Walnut
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I'll take the other point of view here. I have only built one F5 and it was for my daughter but the bloodwood binding came out great! Not that it wasn't a PITA or that I didn't break or re-make several of the pieces but it was a fun challenge.

Here are some shots in the white.
Image
Image
Image

She wanted it fire engine red so a bit of the detail was lost in the staining process.

Image

So I vote Go For It!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 12:24 pm 
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Walnut
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Hmm.. well it's a 50/50 split.
I'd love to do the wood binding, but it's starting to seem that maybe that's a project for #2...we'll see.

My big problem with the ivoroid binding is figuring out which material to use.
Does anyone know the standard binding specs for an F5?
It seems like the body, fretboard and headstock all use bindings of different dimensions.
Also, if I go ivoroid, I think I'd like to use a cream colored material, rather than a stark white.
I have some grained cream colored ivoroid binding, which I think would work, but I haven't seen anywhere that sells a b/cream/b purfling for the top or sides, nor anyone who sells pre-laminated bindings/purflings in that off-white cream color.
Is there a preferred supplier for mandolin binding supplies?
Are there higher and lower qualities of ivoroid, or is it all pretty much the same?
Is the cream colored binding just a bad idea?
Anyone know what the big high end builders are using (aside form those few who seem to use wood).

Any and all insights graciously accepted.
-Dan

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 5:37 am 
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For standard F5 binding specs, get one of the good plans available. Either this one, drawn by Don McRostie...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/Plans/F5_Mandolin_Plan.html

..or this, drawn by Adrian Minarovic

http://www.elderly.com/books/items/656-1.htm

For a good assortment in Celluloid Nitrate binding materials, check out Axiom Inc. Here is some with side purfling.

http://axinc.net/storefront/c-12-with-side-purfling.aspx


As for what the 'big guys' are using, I think most that make Lloyd Loar replicas use celluloid. Much of the mandolin buying public seems to be very particular that the details should be as close to the originals, this includes woods, colors, bindings, finish, the works. Not saying it should matter for you, though.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 2:38 pm 
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Walnut
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Thanks for that Axiom site Arnt..I wasn't familiar with them.
Those pre-laminated celluloid bindings look great (though expensive).
Who knows, maybe I'll still get adventurous and try to bend some maple though.
Thanks again everyone.
-Dan

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