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No, it’s not an acoustic, it’s an electric. This has been seen some time ago on the MIMF but, as I haven’t anything else to show yet, I thought it might be of interest here.
EIR back, sides, headstock veneer and backstrap.
Spruce (German I think) front, bought with B+S 35 years ago.
Ebony fingerboard, bridge, bindings, heel cap etc.
Maple/walnut neck adjustable for string height with 2 CF rods 3/8”x1/8” and a Hotrod.
35”-scale. Hipshot Ultra Lite machine heads. Graphtec nut. CF saddle.
D-Tar Timberline under-saddle pickup and preamp with added vol. and tone controls.

Thanks to Rick Turner (creator of the Timberline) who’s Renaissance basses inspired this one and who was very generous with advice when I had problems (of my own making) installing the pickup. You can click on the images for a better view.

The body is a 335-type construction with a solid centre block running end to end. The ‘sound-hole’ isn’t one and its cover is covering up what’s underneath.

The 2 access panels aren’t the prettiest feature but were necessary. The battery holder is attached to the LH one and the preamp/jack socket to the RH. They were also necessary to install the tone and volume controls and the Widget (see below).

Dave, that's one of the coolest things I've seen here.
I love what you did w/ the back!

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Thanks Steve, I got bogged down in editing, I hadn't quite finished. Here's the rest.

The truss-rod cover is held in place by a small magnet.

This is the ‘Widget’. The problem with basses with no upper horn is that they’re neck-heavy. To try and counteract this, the strap button unscrews 3 turns, slides out and then unscrews 3 more turns to lock it in place. It’s not perfect but it helps quite a lot.

This is what’s under the sound-hole cover. The 2 headless socket screws are jacking screws and go through the neck to bear on 2 brass discs set into the body. To adjust neck angle, unscrew the 2 shiny retaining screws a few turns and loosen the 2 screws in the back, below the heel, just enough to let the neck move. Turn the jacking screws to obtain the neck angle (string height) required. Tighten the back screws just enough to seat the heel in its recess and the 2 shiny retaining screws to take up the play. The string tension actually holds the end of the neck down and the 2 retaining screws are only to prevent the neck being accidentally pushed back.
The cover is held on by the 2 magnets set into the transverse bar.

Dave, I love it. That is waaaaaay cool. Beautiful design.

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Mike

"The Dude abides. I don't know about you but I take comfort in that. It's good knowin' he's out there. The Dude. Takin' 'er easy for all us sinners. Shoosh." The Stranger

VERY nice!!!!

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My soundclick xx luthier blog xx luthier soundclick

Can you tell us more about the ‘Widget’?

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Say what you do, Do what you say.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

The bracket that the 'Widget' screws into had to be incorporated at an early stage of the construction. It was made from a nut like the one shown.

The 'Widget' was made from a piece of threaded rod with part of the thread machined off in a lathe. You could do it with a file but it would be hard work(!)and the reduced diameter in the middle wasn't really necessary. It also has a threaded hole in each end. A hole was bored through a piece of (oversize) rosewood and it was epoxied onto the threaded rod. The outside diameter was turned down so that it slid nicely into the hole in the body. A straplock button was screwed to one end and a retaining washer made for the other.

To install it, you slide it into the hole and screw it into and through the bracket. The lock washer, retaining washer and screw are then fitted. In the final assembly, of course, the last operation has to be done using Mark Swanson's patent fishing-rod/allen key through the access panel. As I’ve said before, I don't see any one taking it up and putting it into production <g>.

One word:

INCREDIBLE

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

Oops, I thought of a second word:

MASTERFUL

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

Bruce...Ya got that right
Thank you very much Mr. Higham

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Say what you do, Do what you say.

You're very kind, gentlemen.

This entire guitar is a really fine example of well designed engineering coupled with just flawless execution! Outstanding!

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Jim Howell
Charlotte, NC

That is a really cool looking and well designed bass. Great work.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Holy cow!
I spoke too soon... that IS the coolest thing I've seen.

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Every ones right, this is really cool. Great job!

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

AWSOME,

i love to see quality craftsmanship like that in this day and age.
thats absoluty wonderfull.
is there an air cavitity between the double sides or is it the space between the sides filled with something?

Joel.

Thanks Joel, this is what it looked like before the top went on.

Its a beautiful instrument, Dave. You make nice stuff.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

Thanks for the inspiration, Dave!

Please tell us about the sound!

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

WoW ! What a great design Dave and so well crafted. You certainly do fine work
and I too really like the back. We don't see many bass guitars here and this one is truly special.Like Steve K. said:
This is the coolest thing I've seen!! Thanks for the great photos'.

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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

Thanks Arnt and Todd and Dave. I must admit to being 'chuffed' at receiving compliments from all you guys, knowing the quality of the work you all do.

The sound? Well, of course it doesn't make any unless it's plugged in . When it is, I think it's amazing, especially the low B. My first bass, another 5-string, had a weak B string but only had a 34" scale. This one is a 35". I also did what Rick does and put Thomastik Infeld ABG strings on it. They took a little getting used to as they're quite low tension and they're like classic guitar strings, bronze windings on nylon cores. Rick describes the low B on his Renaissance basses as 'thunderous' and I quite agree. But how to describe the sound, I'm not sure.

When I finished it I took it into a local music shop to show one of the partners who is a bassist and has built a few himself. As it happened there was another pro bass player there and the guy called him over to have a look at it. The pro took it over and plugged it into a huge bass amp and spent about 15 minutes playing it. Then he came back and said he thought it was superb and did I take orders? I had to say, unfortunately no, but that was the best sort of compliment I could have.

Maybe a better reply would have been, "Not until just now!"

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Here, Here!! I quite heartily agree!

Dave, I am really impressed with your designs. This bass is amazing.

I have also been impressed with the other instrument which you use a picture of the headstock as your avatar. I would like to incorporate that headstock design into a six string guitar, if it is okay with you.

Cheers,

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Steve Walden
Aspiring Builder,
Bartlesville, OK

Waddy, I don't think any one would pay me enough! I spent nearly 2 years making that bass. In any case, I do it for fun and making an instrument to order would take the fun out of it for me. If I were a much younger man, perhaps...

Steve, I can't really lay any claim to that headstock design so feel free. The idea came from Ned Steinberger's EUB and a range of guitars and basses he did for Bolin, although they don't seem to be produced any more. A French luthier, Frédéric Pons, who goes under the name of Kopo (copeaux=shavings, geddit?) does something similar. I've only seen photos so I drew up my own version.

Very cool...Great job.

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Brad
Avon, OH