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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 1:44 pm 
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Location: Saint Petersburg, Florida
First name: Glenn
Last Name: LaSalle
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Hey Folks,

I got around to bracing my top over the past week or so. I reached a point
where I want to step back and evaluate. A couple of pictures through the
bracing process.

Any suggestions, critique, suggestions, etc greatly appreciated. Vital
Statistics:
- OM Guitar
- 1/4" bracing all around except Transverse Brace
- Height at X (not the capped measurement): .575"

Attachment:
X in Gobar.jpg

Attachment:
Top Rough Braced.jpg

Attachment:
Top carved.jpg

Attachment:
Top and Back Carved.jpg


Tap sounds really nice (to my ears at least :-) ) - I have some clean-up, but not sure I want to make
any major changes, unless folks see something that stands out.

Thanks!

Glenn


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 2:33 pm 
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Looks like bracing to me :)

The only thing I would do is feather out the two lower tone bars to nothing at the body edge, but that's me.

The "popsicle" brace looks sort of funny, it doesn't run the entire width of the top does it? I don't use one, I just do a double Upper Transverse Brace.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:10 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I can't see for sure but you do want all bracing radius without any sharp corners on the main X and tone bars. A sharp corner becomes a focus point for stress. Since you want the top to move without any inferences , the radiusing lets the energy from the bridge flow cleaner. This will help to make a more efficient transfer of energy
john hall
blues creek guitars

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 3:23 pm 
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bluescreek wrote:
I can't see for sure but you do want all bracing radius without any sharp corners on the main X and tone bars. A sharp corner becomes a focus point for stress. Since you want the top to move without any inferences , the radiusing lets the energy from the bridge flow cleaner. This will help to make a more efficient transfer of energy
john hall
blues creek guitars


Hi John,

WRT sharp corners, are you referring o the peaks of the scallops?

Todd,

Yes, I made the popsicle brace that size - do you see any issues with it being "short" as oposed to the entire width of the top? I also featherd the Lower X, tone bars and finger braces to nothing after the photo was taken.

Thx!

Glenn


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:50 pm 
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Koa
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I'm a beginner to so this may be wrong and guys please correct me, but the second hump of the scallop on the x braces and tone bars looks high if it were I'd take them down, it could be some perstective thig with the camera as well. Only my thoughts for what they are worth I've also found it useful to flex the top and try to aim for a relative loseness at the edges and tight in the center all very subjective

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 6:26 pm 
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for a first time I think you've done a good job just from the looks of it. It will get better in time, and the most important factors (stiffness, and tap tone) we can't judge, but just at first blush for a first go good job.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 9:26 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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your bracing from the pics looks clean , you do want the corners , to be radiused. As you gain experience in building you will learn so many things. To get the most energy from the strings to the top , along with the proper set up , the shape of the brace will influence the way it allows energy to flow to the top.
If you have sharp corners on the tops of the braces the forces will focus along the lines , rounding them lets the energy flow as efficiently as possible. Granted this may not be that noticeable , it is just one of the many factors.
Keep a building log so as you build more you can learn what influences the tonal value you are looking for. Some fun things to help to learn is how profiles of a brace can influence stiffness. If you figure the cross sectional area , then make braces of different shape but the same cross sectional area and note how that shaping can influence the stiffness.
This information can come in handy as you learn to match top stiffness and how much bracing you need to get the sound you want to hear.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 9:57 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Glenn,

Looks good. One thing I noticed... the bottom bout braces seem to rise too quickly to a peak off the x brace. Maybe pull the peak out a bit?

Did you thickness the top and bottom yourself? :)

Mike


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 2:06 am 
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Koa
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Glenn,

Looking good with the bracing.

Just for comparisons sake. heres a pic of bracing on a 12 string Ive just finished. Notice how my tone bars have a single peak and its quite high. Personnel choice and horse for courses...find whatever works for you and go with it.

Cheers Martin


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 12:11 pm 
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Location: Saint Petersburg, Florida
First name: Glenn
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State: Florida
Status: Amateur
Thank you all for the replies and advice! I made some minor changes, and then sanded to 220. I think I am ready to call it a top :-). I am happy with it so far (short of having a top from one of you guys where I could compare tap and stiffness, my "gut" tells me I am OK). I am sure after several more guitars under my belt I will realize what I "should have done", but until then, I will be content and move on to closing the box :-)

Thanks again,

Glenn


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 12:54 pm 
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I'm not skilled enough to give advice since I just finished my first top about a month ago but I will say I think it looks good. [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 8:12 pm 
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Looks very good to me. Most first tops are braced way too stiff. Yours looks very good.
I've found listening to the tap tone the best way for me to judge when the top is still too
stiff. Very subjective, but listening for that "magic" point where the top sounds "just right"
(I know, I know... subjective as all get-out, but that's as well as I can describe it) seems
to work for me so far.

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