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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 1:47 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I have just finished joining and thickness sanding 3 ukulele koa tops and backs and a cedar top and bubinga back. All of these were thickness sanded to 0.120" ( 3mm).
A couple of questions:

1. What starting thickness do most of you like to begin with?

2. What final thickness do you you find that you often end up with?
( I know this will vary from piece to piece, but what are your experiences?)

OK, I lied. One more question:

3. I have never used Western Red Cedar before, but even at 3mm thickness it is as floppy as can be. I mean it is scary. Should I expect this from cedar, or did I just get a bad piece of wood?

Thanks,
Bill

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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mandodiddle wrote:
I have just finished joining and thickness sanding 3 ukulele koa tops and backs and a cedar top and bubinga back. All of these were thickness sanded to 0.120" ( 3mm).
A couple of questions:

1. What starting thickness do most of you like to begin with?

2. What final thickness do you you find that you often end up with?
( I know this will vary from piece to piece, but what are your experiences?)

OK, I lied. One more question:

3. I have never used Western Red Cedar before, but even at 3mm thickness it is as floppy as can be. I mean it is scary. Should I expect this from cedar, or did I just get a bad piece of wood?

Thanks,
Bill


You don't tell us what size uke we are talking about. I'll give some soprano dimensions I like.

1: .090
2: .070
3: too hard to say without flexing it.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 3:10 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Hello Bill;

Let's assume soprano, here's what I like (koa/wrc.)

Back= .85"
Sides= .65" to .75", I try to stay above .60" even in the tightest bends for the addition of binding (.60")
Top= (WRC)= Depending on the specimen, type and size of bracing, about .75".

But even with a baritone (largest uke) I still maintain about :
Back= .90"
Sides= .75" to .85"
Top= (again WRC), about .85" to .90". I find the thinner you can go with a uke, (with-in reason) the better projection and tone you'll get.
.120" for any uke is too thick in my opinion. No matter what woods used.
I 'd love to see the Koa pics you have.
You might try to thickness one down, as mentioned and see what your own thoughts are, as it is hard to suggest without having the woods in front of me to test/deflect.
HTH-Good luck.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:29 pm 
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Gosh Nehemiah, those must be really strong ukes- almost an inch thick on back, and 3/4" or so on sides. laughing6-hehe

beehive

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:52 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Thanks for the replies!
Sorry, I forgot to mention that these were all tenors.
Will that make any difference in your responses?

Thanks again,
Bill

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:56 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Sorry about that Gene. forgot the first zero.

Bill, I can say what my last tenor thicknesses ended up, but styles vary from builder to builder , so bracing and type along with species are factors I consider in determinimg final thickness.
But if this helps, here is my last tenor in brazillian koa, (goncalo alves or tigerwood), with a west. red cedar top.
Sides- .070" to .075"
Back- .090"
Cedar top- averaged out to about .090".
if this helps

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 11:03 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Yes, thanks Nehemiah. That does help.

Bill

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 8:00 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Nehemiah,

Sorry it took so long to get pictures of the Koa. See if this works:


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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