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I was wondering which placement you preferred and why. I can see that some neck block configurations could make adjustment difficult through the sound hole or even some sound hole placements could be difficult as well. Why do you adjust the truss rod from the location you choose?

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Thank You and Best To All

Headstock, because I think the cover looks cool. May be a bit more prone to cracking the headstock off if you drop the guitar, but I don't worry about it since something is bound to break in that event, and the headstock is not the worst potential place.

Really, both are perfectly fine. Pick your favorite, or change it up every guitar

I prefer the sound hole access as the cover on the peg head looks wrong to, and the guitarist will be less inclined to mess with it all the time.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

I'm a sound hole guy.. I don't like having to pull screws to make what I feel should be an annual adjustment.

Soundhole for a clean headstock, but I have made and engraved some silver truss rod covers for Gibson banjos and mandolins that turned out pretty cool.

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Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement.

I like easy access and as long as its easy then I'm for it. That makes standard soundhole rods not for me. But if they are extended to the soundhole and can be adjusted by just sticking a wrench through the strings instead of sticking your hand in the hole, I like it.

Head plate. IMHO It is easier to adjust during set up. Truss rod covers also can be done in a nice way that adds to the headstock.

I like truss rods at the peghead.
Doesn't really matter much - just my preference.
For a client - I build what THEY want.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Sound hole guy here too. Why weaken the head stock more when head stock failures are so common, in drop accidents or especially in shipment? Doesn't make sense to me...

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tim...
http://www.mcknightguitars.com

Several years ago at a “gathering” in Bebe Arkansas a guy named Matt (sorry I forget his last name) brought an arch top with a groove cut length ways into the face of the head before the head plate was glued on. After the head plate was glued on a ball nose allen wrench could be ran through the hole left by the groove from the top of the head to adjust the truss rod.

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Say what you do, Do what you say.

I'm firmly in the same camp as Tim, soundhole for me. I run cf up over the headstock transition to reinforce it, why would I then want to cut a big groove and weaken it again?

I only run the truss rod up to just short of first fret.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

You guys do know you're not supposed to adjust the rod under string tension, right?

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

Looking forward to hearing people's opinion on this one..

as am I. Hmmmmmm

I do both.

I like peghead adjustment.

Most guys seem to like the soundhole adjustment, and a lot of my customers seem to want a clean headplate.

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Old growth, shmold growth!

I adjust under tension. How else can you tell what you're doing..?

I adjust under tension. How else can you tell what you're doing..?[/quote]
exactly I always do too except for guitars with soundhole adjustment cuz you just can't and it's a major pain. Adjust a bit, tune it up, loosen the strings, try it again??? Doesn't make any sense to me.

I've seen quite a few stripped and broken truss rods, I guess now I know why.
Truss rods are strong enough to hold a neck in place, but many are not strong enough to move it against string tension, particularly single action rods.
I learned that the accepted method is using clamps & blocks to flex the neck into the correct position so there's no stress on the rod while it's being adjusted.
I'd like to hear what the experienced repair guys (you know who you are) say.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

Sounds to me like the truss rods aren't built strong enough

[quote="Rodger Knox"]I've seen quite a few stripped and broken truss rods, I guess now I know why.
Truss rods are strong enough to hold a neck in place, but many are not strong enough to move it against string tension, particularly single action rods.
I learned that the accepted method is using clamps & blocks to flex the neck into the correct position so there's no stress on the rod while it's being adjusted.
I'd like to hear what the experienced repair guys (you know who you are) say.[/

I've never had a truss rod break or strip. It doesn't take much force to adjust my necks. If it does, something is wrong..

[quote="Rodger Knox"]I've seen quite a few stripped and broken truss rods, I guess now I know why.
Truss rods are strong enough to hold a neck in place, but many are not strong enough to move it against string tension, particularly single action rods.
I learned that the accepted method is using clamps & blocks to flex the neck into the correct position so there's no stress on the rod while it's being adjusted.
I'd like to hear what the experienced repair guys (you know who you are) say.[/

I've never had a truss rod break or strip. It doesn't take much force to adjust my necks. If it does, something is wrong..

[quote="Rodger Knox"]I've seen quite a few stripped and broken truss rods, I guess now I know why.
Truss rods are strong enough to hold a neck in place, but many are not strong enough to move it against string tension, particularly single action rods.
I learned that the accepted method is using clamps & blocks to flex the neck into the correct position so there's no stress on the rod while it's being adjusted.
I'd like to hear what the experienced repair guys (you know who you are) say.[/

I've never had a truss rod break or strip. It doesn't take much force to adjust my necks. If it does, something is wrong..

Agreed! I use the Blanchard truss rod that Allied sells. By its design, very little torque is needed to turn it, but more turning is required. Sort of like a compound low on a 4WD. There's very little torque stress on the rod, which is a major factor in breakage, with most of the stress in tension. Not affiliated, just a user.

BTW, I'm a soundhole guy. Too many people out there think you can set the action with the truss rod. With a properly placed hole in the upper transverse brace, access is easy. Haven't had any complaints (knock on wood).

Pat

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formerly known around here as burbank
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com

In theory it should be the same idea as adjusting a block plane blade, especially the type with a lever cap screw to tighten down the blade. You should ALWAYS release the tension off the lever cap before adjusting the depth of cut. If not then you end up putting far too much pressure on the threads of the adjustment screw.

So a truss rod should be based on the same theory. Zeke stating the strength of the rod should be greater if they are stripping out doesn't really make sense when you think about the point of weakness. The rod itself is not the issue, it is the threads where all the strain is being applied. One can only make the threads so strong. Doing this under tension will work fine for quite some time in most cases but there is always a chance that the rod has a weak thread initially and will strip out very soon. Either way I agree that this is poor practice, even if it's a pain to get right without stings on. I am not speaking in experience with guitar making but am experienced in planes adjustment screw being stripped and understand why.

There are alternatives to making stronger threads such as stronger materials, tighter thread tolerances, different types of threads.

I've never had one strip out so I see no weakness in any of mine. I personally believe stripped truss rods are caused by user error, BUT if you notice a significant number of broken and stripped rods it seems like this could be a result of defective rods. If this is the case you should consider the rods as the problem. I personally believe they should be able to withstand tightening with the strings tuned to pitch. I they can't then it's defective IMO.