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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2013 8:11 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:17 am
Posts: 1937
Location: Evanston, IL
First name: Steve
Last Name: Courtright
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
SteveCourtright wrote:
I made a press that looks like a violin edge clamp. It has two wood cylinders that are movably disposed on a threaded bolt. One of the cylinders is moved toward the other with a wingnut. The faces of the cylinders are provided with leather. The bolt must be small in diameter so as to fit in the hole that receives the bushing without interfering with the bushing as it is pressed in. I will try to put up a pic tonight or so.


Overkill, perhaps, but easy to make and nice to use. SBC


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 6:40 am 
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Location: Santo, TX
Todd Stock wrote:
I have the SM tool as well, and it's great for pulling bushings, but really not needed for seating them.


Furthermore, I had one slip and dent a headstock finish while installing bushings. Never again. Definitely pays for itself for removing bushings, though!

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http://www.wesmcmillian.com


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 12:03 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
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Location: Alexandria MN
With me and nitro it seems that little lifts when prepping the bushing holes are pretty common. Here's yet another way to apply butyl c to the edge and affords good control.
Get a small syringe with a 25G or preferably smaller needle. Raise a small bead on the bevel and touch it to the edge of the lift.

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2009 8:50 pm
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Location: Seattle WA
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Todd Stock wrote:
What I've learned about tuner bushings...

- I use a .2505 chucked reamer to ream out the 1/4" tuner holes after finishing.......... Use a SHARP single flute countersink to chamfer the tuner holes on both front and back of peg head...a .015-.020 wide chafer face seems about righ


What do you think about countersinking first then ream? Seems like reaming would be less dangerous. Or if you don't have a reamer, maybe just re-drill?

Where do you get butyl cellosolve?

Todd, you should write a book!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 9:37 pm 
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Koa
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A one inch long length of 1/4" dowel(wood or steel, no matter) chucked into your drill press. Then, with the drill press not running(d'uh!), press them home!

I just drill the holes at 1/4", and use the SM cutter for the bushings. I'll just touch each hole with a tapered stone in a Dremel to give it a bit of a chamfer, and this chamfer prevents the finish from splitting. I have one that's been chucked in the same Dremel since the late 90's and has never been removed! I use it to put a light chamfer on every hole(end pin, strap button, etc...) in a completed instrument.

K.I.S.S.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:25 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 1:22 pm
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The cellosolve tip is worth its weight in gold! I figured it out by accident - I only wish I knew of it years earlier!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:51 pm 
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Todd Stock wrote:
If i wrote a book, the acknowledgement section would run for dozens of pages...


Most who have written on lutherie ought to have as much acknowledgement! So, there are "how to build a guitar" books, "how to make a good sounding guitar" books. I'm thinking of a good compilation of tips and tricks for efficient building, tooling, jig making etc. that is well organized and easy to navigate. However, I'm sure the "making a better guitar" market is dwarfed by the tiny "I think I might want to make a guitar" market, so maybe an online thing or OLF thing with evolution/ alternate builder angles potential. Plus you could have a cross ref that indicates if things are applicable to mando, uke, archtop etc.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:53 pm 
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grumpy wrote:
A one inch long length of 1/4" dowel(wood or steel, no matter) chucked into your drill press. Then, with the drill press not running(d'uh!), press them home!.


I like it! Good tip about the tapered stone too!

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 5:34 pm 
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Location: Sugar Land, TX
First name: Ed
Last Name: Haney
City: Sugar Land (Houston)
State: Texas
Zip/Postal Code: 77479
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Todd Stock wrote:
What I've learned about tuner bushings...
- I use the StewMac piloted counterbore to drill the bushing hole...anything more that .002 undersized in rosewood will likely result in a crack, so better a little loose and have to glue the pushing in than tight and have to glue and refinish. Drilling the bushing counterbores before filling and finishing is pointless...I just have to rebore to clear finish, etc., and the hole is no cleaner nor less prone to edge chips than if done after finishing


Sounds like some good experience being passed on here.

I am getting ready to drill for some open tuner bushings in rosewood. Stew Mc recommended their #2062 reamer tool which drills a 0.340" hole for the bushing. The bushing is .344" which is .004" larger. than the hole From Todd's experience this could be a problem with rosewood. What would be a good method to inlarge the hole another .002" to get within the margin of safety with rosewood? Maybe sandpaper on a 1/4" dowel? Or anohter reamer of sorts?

By the way, the Waverly tuner has .348" bushings and Stew Mc recommends the same #2062 reamer with .340" hole making it .008" undersized. This yields an even bigger problem for rosewood. Is Stew Mc missing something here in their recommendations? Or do they expect one to know that more enlarging is needed?

Ed


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