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PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 11:35 pm 
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David Newton wrote:
Steve,
Right, I miss typed about the fret #, that is how I usually do it, but this is a 50's Gibson LG-1 and I've picked the dot as the closest thing, I can drill a bigger hole, so only one, and I have a matching dot on hand. I'm not doing a fret job and don't want to mess with pulling a fret...




Got it, and glad the neck is now off! It always seems like it's downhill after that.

Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 6:36 am 
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Mike, that tea kettle can put out a pretty good blast of steam, I had to keep it on a very low fire to control it.

Steve, I ended up going thru the 15th fret and had to aim "uphill" to get the gap. The dot marker would have been about the same, except aiming downhill.
I knew that Gibson necks are a bit more of a struggle to remove, and this one was. The cheeks were glued to the sides...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 10:03 am 
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I did a Norlin era Gibson Hummingbird recently, and it had a straight (not tapered) dovetail. It also had a cracked neck block (and sides, and cracked just about everything), and some yuk-y type of glue everywhere. Combined, it made it a quite 'interesting' neck reset. [xx(]

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 11:33 am 
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Hi Arnt,
I've never seen a straight tenon Gibson joint, but I haven't seen everything either.

I saw a Gibson SJ-200 with the top glued on OVER the dovetail tenon! gaah
I didn't remove the neck, just saw it. The person resetting the neck was knowledgeable about these, and removed the fretboard first.

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