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I noticed (after putting in the kerf binding) that the sides of my 12 fret L-00 build (ishpingo) have some longitudinal rippling in them in the lower bout. Not terrible but, I'm just wondering if anyone actually scraped through a side when leveling them out... I have built 12 steel string acoustics and never scraped through...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Yes.

I've tried all kind of tricks to save the rims. Nothing has ever worked, and I usually end up wasting time.

I hope someone here has a super awesome trick that works.


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Kerf binding?

Do you mean kerfed linings? As in, the top and back aren't on?

You can try adding 1/4 x 1/4" side braces, clamped in with flat cauls, and that can often help.

I got frighteningly close on my second acoustic guitar. I still play it regularly, and when I push against certain areas, I have a hard time believing they're any thicker than .040".

I've seen many old Martin 18's with paper-thin sides. I figure they were sanded within an inch of their lives to eliminate some ripples.


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Mountain Song Guitars www.mountainsongguitars.com

Not scraped, but sanded. Oh....the dread. Not really any fix except paint.

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Pat

Pics? Are you saying the longitudinal is being caused by too much thinning?

It's worse than I thought... Any suggestions? Heat would probably help, but. I don't want to loosen the kerf "lining". As suggested, I could clamp and glue a brace, but I'm not sure how hefty a brace It would need. My typical side braces would likely be hefty enough...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Oh, it's just a rim! So yes, I would use a 1/4" brace and cut throuhh yhe lining. I would mirror the positions on the other side as well to make it look a little more deliberate.

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Pat

This is the approach I'm thinking of taking. Not glued yet. The other side needs it too, so I'll mirror this on the other side. The rest of the sides look okay. It's just at the ends of the lower bout. Once I get them glued in I can shape them up. Look like a reasonable approach?

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

I would cut the linings and run them top to bottom just for the extra glue area.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Depends how much stress there is. Did it take much clamping pressure to flatten it out? If so, I would feel much better about the brace going all the way to the top and bottom through the lining. Otherwise, there could possibly be an even higher stress right in between the two. The brace probably only needs to be half that width. Well, depending on how thick it is.

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Pat

Steve it is annoying isn't it. I have not just a curve but a ripple on the cutaway side on my current build. I took the side down to 1.8 mm to help with the sharp bends required for the cutaway which probably caused the problem.

Having sanded and scraped as much as I dared I've decided to leave it. It is a hand built guitar after all!

I have seen descriptions of heating with cauls across the side to straighten it out. I will probably try this in future. I don't think that forcing with fat side splints is a good solution. the stress is always going to be there.

Good luck with the build Dave

Make an inside caul and then spritz water on the outside and iron out with a regular clothes iron. Had some waviness on the walnut sides of a current build. Ironed it into a flat curve.

Or a new set of rims, for Pete's sake. I thought it was a closed up body. You are talking only a few hours of work to make new rims or forever have this issue in a new guitar that you spent 100+ hours on. Hang that on a wall in your shop as a reminder/warning. My shop is FULL of such warnings.

I see no reason to toss the rims without even trying a fix. I have all kinds of reminders/warnings in my shop, too, but I learn a great deal more trying to work through my mistakes than by simply hanging them on the wall.

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George :-)

Try and save them first, if this does not work, walk away and make new rims.

As mentioned, wet the wood and clamp some cauls to convince the wood that being flat is the preferred state of being. Leave the clamps on for as long as possible as wood takes awhile to convince, it can be stubborn. Then make the rim braces and glue them on.

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/

Yes, definitely try to save first. No harm in having some braces inside. Or you could just use it for your test mule guitar, birdhouse etc

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Pat

Okay, for better or worse, this is what I ended up doing. I was covinced that having the barces go through the kerf lining was the best approach. As you can see, I was pretty far along with the build when I noticed the rippled sides. I am pretty confident that I can scrap out any remaining ripples and if necessary a little extra z-poxy should do the trick. Two things - 1) This will be a test case. 2) I will pay more attention earlier on to ensure ripples are dealt with, if they occur, right after bending.

Building is always an adventure...

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Looks good to me.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"