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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 8:23 pm 
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Walnut
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I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this for me.
I finished putting the radius on my fingerboard and ended up a bit thinner than I usually do(about .200) I'm usually about .250
I have not fretted or glued it on yet.
am I going to be ok or am I to thin? it is rosewood.
also would it make sense to add a thin veneer to the back side, maybe .050 thick?
thanks in advance for any help. I don't want to throw it away but also don't want to compromise the finished product.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 8:35 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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You should be fine. I wouldn't add the veneer. It would only make it look like a problem when there is none.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 10:39 pm 
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Clay S. wrote:
I wouldn't add the veneer. It would only make it look like a problem when there is none.

Not necessarily. With fingerboard binding, it could either be covered up or look like side purfling.

That said, it's probably not necessary. The fingerboard thickness does play into the overall fret plane geometry, though. With it thinner, the neck will need to be angled back slightly more to hit the same target height at the bridge location, which will add a tiny bit more gap under the fingerboard extension above the soundhole. But I don't think it will be enough to worry about. fret leveling should take care of it. A small amount of fall-away on the fingerboard extension is a good thing.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 3:08 am 
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Koa
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Reduce the thickness of the bridge or combination of the bridge and saddle height by a mere -.025" and everything stays the same -- neck set angle wise.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 3:48 am 
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kencierp wrote:
Reduce the thickness of the bridge or combination of the bridge and saddle height by a mere -.025" and everything stays the same -- neck set angle wise.

Nope, gotta drop the full .050". This is moving the entire fret plane as a unit, bridge included.

At least it's not double, like when changing 12th fret action height.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 6:51 am 
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Koa
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DennisK wrote:
kencierp wrote:
Reduce the thickness of the bridge or combination of the bridge and saddle height by a mere -.025" and everything stays the same -- neck set angle wise.

Nope, gotta drop the full .050". This is moving the entire fret plane as a unit, bridge included.

At least it's not double, like when changing 12th fret action height.


Yep, thanks for correcting -- I should have had some coffee before replying -- at any rate I think I'd still shave the bridge and adjust the saddle. But barring the economics I'd really use a different FB

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 8:54 am 
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Walnut
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Thank you Guys for the help. I'm going to give it a try, I checked my bridge height and it looks like I will be right on at 3/8". when I cut my fret slots I follow the radius so I do have extra thickness over the truss rod.


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