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I can't fathom any reason why it wouldn't be ok, but thought I'd ask for opinions and feedback...

It's a perfect material for said purpose. Smells good too.

I don't care for it . The only reason is the taste it leaves in your mouth when sanded. Smells great though. I'm using it as a neck block with Spanish cedar neck. Thought they would go well matched that way.

Yeah, the bitter, bitter, acrid, long lasting taste. It's true.

But that's not a good enough reason not to use it...

I was going to use some but it seemed a bit soft for a bolt on neck joint which is what I use.

Interesting, cause I was thinking it would be ok to use for the exact same reason.

Don't take my word! Wait for someone who knows what they're talking about, that was just my feeling at the time andi had plenty of Honduran bits to use anyway.

I use it on many of my builds, either a solid block or 3 piece lamination, necks too, and especially on a build where I'm looking to save weight.
The taste, well I've gotten used to it over the years, and it does not seem to be a toxin to my system, but I love to shower in the evening after getting all dusted up.

Note of warning, figured Spanish Cedar is to be avoided, as much weaker than you would think.

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Thanks! I have a bunch of neck wood offcuts the right size to be used as neck blocks. Hate throwing wood in the bin...

Our neck blocks are a two piece laminate, I like the strength and stability aspect of that design. I would agree that the surface does have a tendency to compress a little, but so does Mahogany which I believe is not a true hardwood. Our attachments use brass inserts CA'd in place -- once the tenon is in the the mortise they are going nowhere hard or soft wood. To deal with the surface compression we use a large washer under the Belville compression washer -- lots of area. That said I have not used Spanish Cedar for a neck block.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

I beg to differ. Whether a timber is a hardwood or softwood is a botanical classification ... nothing to do with the actual hardness of the wood.
Mahogany may not be as hard as , for example, wenge or ebony, but it is still a hardwood. So is balsa for that matter.

Murray what's your point?

My point was as stated

"I would agree that the surface (of Spanish Cedar) does have a tendency to compress a little, but so does Mahogany." ------- I've seen that before. And you just verified that Mahogany (I guess) is not classified as a true hardwood.

What are you begging to differ about in the context of the Original Post?

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

Well, Spanish Cedar is tough enough. Taste? I dunno. Smells good though. Very shapable too. If in doubt, add a little mass. Hog is no doubt harder. Will always be my go-to block material as long as it is available.

Not that it matters:

Janka Hardness in lbs -- dent, crush resistance

Spanish Cedar 600
Honduran Mahogany 900
Khaya 1070
Hard Maple 1450
EIR 2440

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

How so?

I will answer for Murray, who is absolutely correct.

The term 'hardwood' has nothing to do with the actual hardness of the wood. Balsa is a hardwood. Cottonwood is a hardwood. Heart pine (which is much harder) is a softwood.
If you had said that mahogany or Spanish cedar are not truly hard (relatively speaking) then there is no issue. But both woods are 'true hardwoods', which are broad-leafed trees.

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John

Thanks for all the clarification

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

Spot on, John, until your last 4 words. Botanically, hardwoods are dicotyledonous angiosperms, while softwoods are gymnosperms. Spanish cedar is indeed a "hardwood". The terms "hardwood" and "softwood" are unfortunate, but anatomically the xylem tissue of the former has vessels, while the latter has tracheids. There are rather many gymnosperms with broad leaves, e.g., ginkgo, kauri, etc., so not all broad leaved trees are hardwoods.



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I use it for all my Flamencos & classical neck blocks.

If you drill a 5/16 or3/8th hole (approx. 5/16th from the body joint) from the f.b side or the heel side
& insert a hardwood the size of the hole you'll make a great hardwood anchoring
for the threaded inserts.

Mike

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Mike Collins

I've used Spanish Cedar for neck blocks and it works fine. You can also use spruce.....

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