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 Post subject: electrifying a hot pipe?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:29 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:55 pm
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Location: Taiwan
First name: Tai
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If I wanted to add heating elements to a bending pipe so I don't need to mess with gas, what do I do?

I was thinking maybe take 5 100 watt soldering irons, and mount them in a circular configuration around the steel pipe, so that the heating is even... Will that work? What's the best way to bond heating element to a pipe to promote good heat transfer?

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

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 Post subject: electrifying a hot pipe?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:52 am 
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First name: Zeke
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I used an electric charcoal starter and just shoved it in a pipe. It's cheap and worked well. You can hook a dimmer switch in the line for heat control.

Check this out:
http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/archives ... 32_0_5_0_c


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:00 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I thought of that, I just thought I could use something available locally since nobody seems to sell electric charcoal starters in Taiwan, means I have to order it. However there is a seller in hong kong selling cheap cartridge heaters on ebay, with cheap shipping. The problem is how do I mount cartridge heaters to a pipe and still get good heat transfer?

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:34 am 
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Walnut
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Location: Long Island, NY
My pipe is rigged with a single 500 watt Halogen bulb and works just fine. The pipe is 1/4" wall aluminum, sealed at both ends with cans that the fit the inside diameter, and temperature is controlled with a dimmer switch. Full blast will reach ~500 F. Leads on the inside of the pipe are high temp, and were additionally insulated with high temp sheathing (fiberglass IIRC).


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:47 am 
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I use one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Eagle-C ... 20de084519 in a piece of aluminium aircraft strut. It works very well. This one looks used but they're not hard to find new.

Courtesy for my buddy Daniel Minard.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:43 pm 
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Tai Fu wrote:
However there is a seller in hong kong selling cheap cartridge heaters on ebay, with cheap shipping. The problem is how do I mount cartridge heaters to a pipe and still get good heat transfer?

I tried that, suspended the cartridge in tightly packed metal scouring pads inside the pipe - burnt out first time I tried it, even with a controller fitted.
Now use electric BBQ starter.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:47 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Location: Norfolk (UK)
I just used a solid block of aluminium and bored a hole in it and inserted a cartridge heater into it. This was then wired up through a dimmer for control. It works really well, I bought the heating cartridge on Ebay, and it was shipped from your area of the world, so you should be able to get hold of all the parts easily.

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Follow my musings on getting started in luthiery http://www.tredwellinstruments.co.uk


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:25 pm 
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Koa
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I use a heat gun instead of a torch. Its like a really hot hair dryer. You should be able to find one at a hardware store.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 4:02 am 
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Koa
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I used bits from a broken 500w linear halogen flood light. The ceramic "globe" holders from the flood light can be mounted in an aluminium tube, then load up the linear "globe" (or bulb in other parts of the world) and you're away. Temp control is via a domestic 500 watt dimmer.

I've also used bits from a cheap two bar 2kW radiant heater. Wire the "bars" in series instead of parallel and you have a 500w heater that can be inserted in a piece of aluminium tube and controlled from the same 500w domestic dimmer.

Electric charcoal starters don't exist in this part of the world, either.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 1:27 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I built my bending irons using cartridge heaters that I ordered from McMaster-Carr. They are 110v and are 6'' long. I mounted them centered in the pipes, sealed both ends and ran them through a dimmer switch to control temp. Works great and was very affordable.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 7:05 pm 
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Walnut
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Quine wrote:
I use a heat gun instead of a torch. Its like a really hot hair dryer. You should be able to find one at a hardware store.


While I'm sure the other solutions here are more elegant and less noisy, I did build 5 guitars like that earlier on.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:35 am 
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jeff crisp wrote:
Quine wrote:
I use a heat gun instead of a torch. Its like a really hot hair dryer. You should be able to find one at a hardware store.


While I'm sure the other solutions here are more elegant and less noisy, I did build 5 guitars like that earlier on.


I too use a heat gun but I'm fed-up with the noise. Sometime I'll change it to one of the above. I'll just bend one more side first....

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