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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 12:38 am 
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Ringo, yep! Ruler works fine for me. If you are shooting for 1/1000 of an inch accuracy for action setup you are working way to hard

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 4:40 am 
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C'mon guys, let's get real about some of these numbers!

James Orr wrote:
STRING HEIGHT AT NUT
Fret string at 3rd fret
Look for 1/64” (.015”) clearance above 1st fret...

LOW ACTION: Treble: .045” Bass: .075” ...

Why so high at the first fret? For every other fret trio, you'd put a fret rocker across and expect it not to rock - every fret trio, all over the neck. Here you'd have a 0.015" gap over fret 1 if you used a fret rocker between the nut and fret 2. So fretting at 3, clearance over 1 should be veeeerrry close to zero. I leave just a puffteenth to allow for a bit of nut wear.

So take the nut height down to zero, and that takes the action at 12 down by ~0.0075" which leaves you with an action at 12 of 0.0385", or ~1mm for the rest of the world. On an acoustic guitar?? Medium/high action at 12, first string, acoustic guitar (lights, 12-53) is 2mm. So with action at 1mm you're reducing the dynamic range by a factor of 4 (power is proportional to string amplitude squared). As a bare fingernails player, I'd struggle to pluck with a string amplitude of less than 1mm and why sacrifice so much dynamic range?

James Ringelspaugh wrote:
... action numbers can be a good thing to shoot for but context is everything.

Exactly. The trick is to make a 2mm set up (1st sting, fret 12) feel like a 1mm set up, which, as Ringo suggests, means a lot more than just action numbers. It's about string break angles (both ends), straightness of string pulls, length of string "overhang", fretboard curvature, string spacing, neck profile, etc. etc. etc. You know when you've got it right when a player asks "Are these 10s?" when, in fact, they're 12s.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 7:00 am 
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Todd Stock wrote:
Between the SM setup gauge and the dial nut action gauge, I stay in thousandths for pretty much everything, although still do carpentry, cabinetmaking and other rougher stuff in fractions. Also figure that i work to thousandths on most stuff, so no reason to not shoot for those tolerances on setups.


Just wanted to point out that the SM set up gauge is marked in increments of .010" which is roughly equal to one half of a 64 th. So it would appear accuracy is about the same and the rest is semantics.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 10:25 am 
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Subtle.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 1:29 pm 
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I shoot for .070-.090 too. The Stewmac gage is great. The decimal measurements staggered horizontally are very easy to read.

I was born into fractions. Unsatisfied and idealistic, I experimented with metric. Then, decimals saved me.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 1:55 pm 
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Trevor Gore wrote:
C'mon guys, let's get real about some of these numbers!

James Orr wrote:
STRING HEIGHT AT NUT
Fret string at 3rd fret
Look for 1/64” (.015”) clearance above 1st fret...

LOW ACTION: Treble: .045” Bass: .075” ...

Why so high at the first fret? For every other fret trio, you'd put a fret rocker across and expect it not to rock - every fret trio, all over the neck. Here you'd have a 0.015" gap over fret 1 if you used a fret rocker between the nut and fret 2. So fretting at 3, clearance over 1 should be veeeerrry close to zero. I leave just a puffteenth to allow for a bit of nut wear.

So take the nut height down to zero, and that takes the action at 12 down by ~0.0075" which leaves you with an action at 12 of 0.0385", or ~1mm for the rest of the world. On an acoustic guitar?? Medium/high action at 12, first string, acoustic guitar (lights, 12-53) is 2mm. So with action at 1mm you're reducing the dynamic range by a factor of 4 (power is proportional to string amplitude squared). As a bare fingernails player, I'd struggle to pluck with a string amplitude of less than 1mm and why sacrifice so much dynamic range?


Trevor, those are my notes from Kent Everett's setup DVD. They feel pretty good to me. Are you saying a good medium high action above the 12th fret with light gauge strings would be twice as high?


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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 2:15 pm 
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Edit.


Last edited by James Orr on Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 2:26 pm 
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I went to a guitar makers festival recently and found that most of the instruments on display were set up far too low for my taste.
Some were really difficult to play fingerstyle without buzz on the bass strings and the trebles sounding choked.
Unfortunately many use a 12th fret string height as the measure of an instruments quality, but having string clearance is just a physical necessity, however well levelled the frets are.
Don't sacrifice sound and dynamics for numbers, play hard in a big room and hear what it sounds like.


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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 3:58 pm 
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Trevor Gore wrote:
So take the nut height down to zero or very near to it. The trick is to make a 2mm set up (1st sting, fret 12) feel like a 1mm set up, which, as Ringo suggests, means a lot more than just action numbers. It's about string break angles (both ends), straightness of string pulls, length of string "overhang", fretboard curvature, string spacing, neck profile, etc. etc. etc. You know when you've got it right when a player asks "Are these 10s?" when, in fact, they're 12s.



Words to live by I would say.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 5:23 pm 
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James Orr wrote:
Trevor, those are my notes from Kent Everett's setup DVD. They feel pretty good to me. Are you saying a good medium high action above the 12th fret with light gauge strings would be twice as high?

A good medium-high action above the 12th fret with light gauge strings (12-53) is 2mm. That's twice as high as the low action quoted (once the nut height has been set properly). With the nut properly set up, the action would actually be lower over the first few frets on my set-up numbers and less susceptible to fret rattle than when using Kent's low action set-up numbers. Plus the fact that you can actually pluck the strings!
Jeff Highland wrote:
I went to a guitar makers festival recently and found that most of the instruments on display were set up far too low for my taste.
Some were really difficult to play fingerstyle without buzz on the bass strings and the trebles sounding choked.
Unfortunately many use a 12th fret string height as the measure of an instruments quality, but having string clearance is just a physical necessity, however well levelled the frets are.
Don't sacrifice sound and dynamics for numbers, play hard in a big room and hear what it sounds like.

Agreed. There's nothing quite like a well plucked steel string guitar in a good room!

BTW, if any of you are having trouble measuring, try a wedge gauge. Personally, I normally use a 300mm (12") rule which is wide enough to span frets 11 and 12 and read off the 1mm scale interpolating to 0.1mm. I'd say my read accuracy is +/- 0.1mm (0.004"), but I need to put my glasses on for that, these days!

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 8:46 am 
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If you're doing setups in thousandths of an inch, I suspect that slight variations in humidity will keep changing your numbers. Probably same if you 'think' you are using fractions of millimeters.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 10:04 am 
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I also use the SM setup gauge. While true that the graduations are at .010, for me it is very easy to split those lines and get much closer. I have done that for over 30 years with a Starrett scale and a microscope for countersinks and am usually good to .002-.003 verified by various high quality measuring equipment. Pretty easy to gauge the lines and gaps on the SM gauge especially with with some kind of loupe. Do worry a little about parallax error on the D-G strings but it is not much. Lot easier for me than tapping over feeler gauges or trying to to read heavy lined scale that is rocking on 1 fret.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 11:19 am 
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Precision accounting? The derision is mounting.
...but a foolish "vision" breeds cruel misprision.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 12:13 pm 
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I don't know about anyone else, but I could use a recap:

***********************************

Meddlingfool - I go .090 bass .070 treble as my standard. People can ask for adjustments from there.

ChuckB - On a spec guitar, I shoot for .092" E and .065" e.

Brian Howard - I think most repair folks and road tech's seem to use the half 64th as a standard, usually wrote as follows. 4.5-3, which is my typical low action and 6-4.5 would be my high action.

James Orr - LOW ACTION: Treble: .045” Bass: .075”
MEDIUM ACTION: Treble: .060” Bass: .090”
HIGH ACTION: Treble: .075” Bass: .105”

James Ringelspaugh - For me 64ths are easy to read on my best small ruler so that's what I think in terms of. 5 - 3.5 at the 12th fret is generally a very good low setup for light gauge PB strings from 6th to 1st... I'll take the 6th down to 4.5 with a medium gauge set depending on playing style.

Trevor Gore - Medium/high action at 12, first string, acoustic guitar (lights, 12-53) is 2mm.

Pat Macaluso - I shoot for .070-.090.

***********************************

I think that's where things stand so far. Thanks for sharing your target numbers, fellas.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 1:09 pm 
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Yup, I target Bryan Kimsey's numbers as well and have been getting better results with each of my guitars. However, as a relative rookie and a right-brain builder, I'm always striving to understand what, how and why others are thinking, as it helps me build a more complete grasp of the geometry.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 1:40 pm 
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I used Bryan Kimseys for a few years and then switched over to the numbers John Arnold was using at the time which were lower at the nut and a bit more evenly balanced at the 12th fret. Not sure if Bryans numbers have changed since then so very possible they could now be the same. Maybe John will jump in and explain what he is doing. At some point someone has to ask " What kind of music do you play?" " What gauge strings are you using?". Action can be lower for a light fingerstyle player than someone who is heavy strummer or a heavy picker playing mediums.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 4:54 pm 
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George L wrote:
I don't know about anyone else, but I could use a recap:.....

Thanks, George.

Don't forget that there are two ends of the string that control the action at 12. There's not been a whole lot of focus on the end where most of us play, where we feel it most.

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Sun Nov 10, 2013 5:55 pm 
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So true about the nut. Also true about truss rod adjustment. A little bow or lack there of, will make a significant contribution to final setup

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 8:01 am 
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I seem to have come late to this party, but I'll offer two comments:
James Orr wrote:
NECK RELIEF
STRING HEIGHT AT NUT
Fret string at 3rd fret
Look for 1/64” (.015”) clearance above 1st fret
Yes, I saw this on Kent's DVD as well, and frankly it's never made any sense to me -- and I guess Trevor Gore responded in a similar way. If fretting at the 3rd fret, the clearance over fret 1 should be and can be MUCH smaller. Most guitars I see have high string slots and there's often more room for improvement in playing comfort at the nut than at the 12th fret.

The setup figures I use are very similar to those published by David Freeman in American Lutherie (2009, Vol 99: 6-11, 51). Not surprising, I suppose, as I trained with David and my course notes agree well with what he published (there is an obvious conversion error somewhere in the published table, but I can't remember where). I have these reworked into an Excel table in both '000ths inches and mm, and have it taped on my shop wall for easy reference. I don't think I can attach an Excel file here, but I've attempted to attach it as a pdf. I measure string height UNFRETTED over the first fret and shoot for 0.010" for the high E and 0.020" at the bass side (decreasing across the board in increments of 0.002").

How do I measure this? I used to use rulers and automotive feeler gauges, but switched 2 years or so ago to the Stewmac "Nut Slotting Gauge" http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Nuts_and_saddles/Nut_Slotting_Gauge.html. At $60 it's a bit pricey and the dial indicator is not available in metric. But, I ALSO use this for ALL string height measurements above the frets, including fingerboard relief and action at the 12th fret. I have no idea why Stewmac make no mention of these other uses -- it works perfectly, is FAST and precision is better than ±0.0015", which is much better than I can do with rulers, business cards, height gauges and/or feeler gauges. My ageing eyes are appreciative and it means I have a very precise measurement recorded for every instrument I set up and can reliably quantify change from one set up to the next. I think it was money really well spent -- I'm surprised no one else has mentioned it.


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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:00 am 
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Tim, thanks for the setup guide pdf and recommend for the gauge.


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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 8:29 am 
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Sorry to be dumb about this but could someone please tell me; when 1st and 6th string are referred to, which is the bass and which treble.
Need to make sure, don't want do another things backward. Thanks!

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 Post subject: Re: Setup Numbers
PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2013 8:52 am 
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No such thing as a dumb question. By convention, strings are numbered starting at the treble side.


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