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Here is the latest Luthier Tips du Jour video -The topic is using CA glue to install bindings.
This video as well as all my other videos are available via my website http://www.obrienguitars.com/videos/, LMI's website or on Youtube.
Enjoy!

Thanks, Robbie. I've been going with white glue, and would like to try something different. Binding gaps have been a problem for me. Was contemplating the CA approach, since I've heard it referenced to several times on this forum, but probably would not have thought to use the accelerator or the wooden block without seeing your video.

Hi.Robbie, can I joint 2 pieces soundboard or back plate with CA?

Is this method just as applicable to plastic or celluloid binding as it is to wood?
Do you allow the accelerator to "dry" before applying the CA?
Any problems with heat on plastic / celluloid from the "catalystic" reaction between accelerator and CA?

Thanks
MikeJ

Another great video Robbie, keep them coming.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
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I used to join my classical guitar backs with CA glue for years.
I don't think I would use it on soundboards because it might stain the tops.

I have used CA glue on plastic bindings without issue.
The accelerator will evaporate off very quickly.
You don't have to use the accelerator. I was just in a hurry!

Thanks Fred and others. Glad you are enjoying the videos.

Another thanks for a great video. One minor precaution - if you touch the CA pipette to the accelerator on the binding you can harden the tip of the CA pipette in a hurry. Don't ask me how I know this.

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Thank You and Best To All

Nice job, Robbie! As always.
Binding is my favorite part of building the bodies. I, too, often use CA, but extra thick stuff, and I proceed just like it was Titebond but only 3 or 4 inches at a time. A couple tricks I've found to eliminate gaps on the bottom of the binding---if you use commercial pre-purfled binding, sand the bottom of the purfling. I use 80 grit on a sanding stick, I wear an Optivisor, and I only sand until I see sanding marks across the bottom of the purfling. Cutting the individual strips off the lay-up often leaves a standing burr. If the burr bottoms on the rabbet, you'll have a gap when the burr is scraped away as the binding is dressed. Also, I use a chisel to scrape out the corner of the binding channel all the way around the guitar. My routing method often leaves a rounded corner that often interferes with proper seating of the binding. Again, I use the Optivisor. If things look strange I slap in a length of plastic binding to check the ledge and clean it up with a chisel if necessary.

Thanks for another great video, Robbie! As usual, everything is nicely explained and shown. An extra pair of hands would certainly help!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Thanks John. Another method that works and one which I didn't show in the video is to use the brush on CA glue and do a few inches at a time like John does. The brush applicator sure is convenient and helps keep things clean as you work. This method is shown in the upcoming online course I just filmed with Mike Snider of Snider guitars to bind a Les Paul type electric guitar.

Does everyone else hear Robbie's voice in their heads as they read his comments here? And the theme music.

Good one Nick! Years ago I got a call from someone in New Mexico asking me some questions. After about 15 minutes of conversation he said, "You know Robbie, I feel like I have known you for years! I listen to you every night in my living room!"

Nearly two years and counting for me! One of your "YouTube apprentices"!

thank you for another great video! i use ca for binding and it is really fast. i don't use accelerator though because i'm not in that much of a hurry. one tip that i might suggest is that when cutting the binding/purfling rebate don't cut into the kerfing. that way any glue will never get inside the guitar.

I built and entire guitar with CA glue (in various viscosity) except for the bridge glue on the top. So yes it can most certainly be done but don't forget to use shellac as the CA will definitely stain. I probably would not do it again, it was more or less an experiment, but it works fine and the guitar is going on 5 years now. I've used it on other guitar joints that are at least ten years old with no issues.

I've pretty much converted my binding technique to just using CA now. It's so quick, easy and accurate.

Thanks, Robbie! Great tut as always

To add to the chorus...I bind using thin CA also. It's fast, easy, and no clamping or tieing rope for me.

I just hold it with my fingers and glue a section at a time. The bouts make this really easy. Just a little it harder in the waist. I use a piece or scrap of something here.

Yeah, I glue my fingers to the guitar now and again.

I wear disposable latex medical type gloves while gluing with super glue. I go through several pair because I do indeed glue my fingers(glove) to the guitar every once in a while, but it lets me push the binding in place with my hands,
Mike

Thanks for the pointers for this method....and a great looking grand auditorium guitar too

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Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time.

Robbie, About the shellac sealcoat. It's not quite clear to me but when you do the top do you also try to get shellac on the endgrain in the cut channel? If so, do we know the CA sticks to shellac?
MM

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Mike McNerney

Robbie, so well done. Your videos are a treasure. Once again, thank you!

I have been binding with CA for years as well. I ALWAYS have to tip the body upside down and wick UPWARD to avoid the dreaded inside drips and runs. Even still, I find that CA offers a steady sure way of gluing binding and allows you to SEE your work before you commit to gluing it.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

I think Robbie's real secret is that he has 4 hands!