Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi,

I radiused X,tonebar, transverse, finger braces, and even bridge plate when glueing them on to the top. However watching Mayes DVD this morning, he does not radius transverse brace due to easier attachment of fingerboard.

Do you radius braces on upper bout, transverse?

How about bridgeplate?

Are there any big downsides to radiusing all braces and parts on top?

thanks, David

I believe you will find most do not radius the UTB or any bracing beyond the X-brace for the reason John gives.

So does this mean that I have to re do my transverse brace or just have minor challenge to deal with using current brace?

Thanks, David

No it just means you will have to sand your top to more to except the FB extension. (Take the roundness of the spherical shape out of the area where the FB extension sets)

Have made the same mistake I was going to slightly cup my fingerboard before glueing and sand with a level after fitting. I'm also leaving my fingerboard thick as my neck blank is around 2mm thinner than I wanted.

_________________
Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

Thanks MP,

So does this mean that my top would be thinner towards the upper bout where it meets the FB?

Also, is what you said minor adjustment or one of those adjustments that will drive a newbie crazy? vary person to person I know....but just don't know how big of mess I made by raiusing the UT Brace.

David

You can fit the extension to the top; it's more work, but has some theoretical edge since you aren't taking wood off the top.

This is part of why I love to do elevated fretboard extensions that sit on a neck extension. The issue doesn't completely disappear where the neck extension is glued to the top, but it's easier to fit that piece of mahogany or maple to the top than to fit a thin piece of rosewood or ebony, and where the extension is cantilevered (as people call it--it's not really a cantilever by engineering definitions) the problem doesn't exist.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

I dont flatten my UTBs, never have (28 ft rad top) .. to flatten the top area where the FB lies afterwards takes all of 2 minutes .. you are only removing a few thou ( I have done the math) in order to get the area flat. Its no big deal.

Simply carry on .....

_________________
Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Hi,

My experience doesn't compare to the above pro's, but here's what I do.

I start with a straight UTB and radius only the ends, leaving about 3 or 4" straight in the center.
Then I slightly blend the radii into the flat so as not to produce a bump.

I use a 25' radius and it took very little sanding to coax the top into the right angle.

Cheers.

_________________
Horton, MI

interesting Kirt. how do you support this area during glue-up and clamping?

Hi Michael,

I have a couple of 3/4" mahogany boards with my top and back radii (cylindrical) that I use for sanding boards to rough in my braces.
I used the 25' radiused board as a caul and shimmed the center area with pieces of paper to take up the gap. Glue with go-bars above and
the caul below just like it was in a radius dish. I use a dish for the other braces. I thought I had a picture, but couldn't find it.

_________________
Horton, MI

I flatten the UTB even though I agree that flattening the upper bout of the top is no biggie to do either. But I find that when I flatten the UTB I also get a .010 - .020 drop in the fret board termination at the sound hole which is desirable to me.