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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:34 am 
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Good summary Kim.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:11 am 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
Todd, dream up a test that you think might display the issues you are speaking of. Maybe get a block of ebony 2" thick and slice it into slabs? How many? What would be a good objective test?


Mike to me a good subjective test would be how uniform the thickness is. Is the cut straight or wandering all over the place. How about if I send you a block of bloodwood or maybe purpleheart to test. Maybe you could take a video so we can see how your set-up may be different than ours. PM me your mailing address if your interested.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:29 am 
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double post


Last edited by Mike OMelia on Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 10:30 am 
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Well thats a good offer (put up or shut up :)). No need to send me anything. I have a very dense block of wood, cannot remember the name of it... seems it is a relative to teak. I don't think it is mineral laden. But if it is, I will go get some bloodwood on Saturday. Or something hard from the wood store. I'm not cutting anything with rocks in it. I have several new RK blades. I will set up, and video the results. If I am wrong, I will admit it. I was wrong one time before. ;)

I do not have a special setup. I do have a driftmaster fences. I will do all cuts on the outside edge.

Is there a speed of cut requirement? Please explain the cut (like back and sides?)

Mike


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:18 am 
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If you like a challenge, get Fillipo's blade and film it cutting like a champ (with no resharpening).

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:23 am 
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Brilliant!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:29 am 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Mike O'Melia wrote:
If I am wrong, I will admit it.

Mike I seriously doubt you are wrong. My 2HP saw bogged to nearly half speed 2" in to the cut of a 5" tall ebony block. That's pretty black and white. In your case I'm sure it is slicing like a champion or you wouldn't be carrying the banner! As I said before, there is some kind of systemic problem as too many people have issues. For example, we don't see this kind of problem with the Woodmaster CT. I think it is great that you've got a working setup [:Y:]. If you want to videotape in the spirit of sharing knowledge, that's great. But you've got nothing to prove ... well, at least I believe you!

Filippo


I do not doubt that something is amiss here. Something is wrong. And it could be me. Or it could be a systemic problem as you say. I am not afraid to do the test. I will also be buying the blade you all spoke of, so someone give me a source for a quick turn-around order. Woodmaster CT? was that it? Is that a Lenox? I need this info today so I can order the blade.

Bob, where do you get your Woodmaster CT? This is not a variable pitch blade, right?

Mike


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:30 pm 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
Well thats a good offer (put up or shut up :)). No need to send me anything. I have a very dense block of wood, cannot remember the name of it... seems it is a relative to teak. I don't think it is mineral laden. But if it is, I will go get some bloodwood on Saturday. Or something hard from the wood store. I'm not cutting anything with rocks in it. I have several new RK blades. I will set up, and video the results. If I am wrong, I will admit it. I was wrong one time before. ;)

I do not have a special setup. I do have a driftmaster fences. I will do all cuts on the outside edge.

Is there a speed of cut requirement? Please explain the cut (like back and sides?)

Mike


Mike I don't think it matters much what speed or what cut as long as it's not agonizingly slow. Of course the taller the cut aka backs the tougher it is. I probably have at least 1/2 doz RK blades hanging on the wall. Just can't get myself to toss a $225 blade. I probably started using them when I bought my 16" Laguna HD saw about 9 or so years ago. It has the 4.5 HP Baldor motor. I have had 3/4", 1" for the 16" saw and, 2" for my Laguna horizontal re-saw with 28" wheels. They all cut softer woods like butter. None of them ever made a complete cut on a really dense wood. Some made it about 2" and then nothing but burnt chips. So I'm hoping that I may learn something from your video. :P

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 1:48 pm 
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I bought a 93 1/2" x1/2"carbide blade from
Grizzly for my 14"Rikon.
The F'n blade has cut 6" of Ebony & Coco with NO problem-on this little saw!

I'll get some more ;for sure!

Mike [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 2:52 pm 
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Filippo Morelli wrote:
Mike O'Melia wrote:
Bob, where do you get your Woodmaster CT? This is not a variable pitch blade, right?


Mike,
Spectrum Supply sells the Woodmaster CT at a reasonable price. Depending on your band size probably about $120 I'd guess. As for the Lenox blade, I'm thinking of ordering up what Chas uses (I have a PM to him so I can figure out exactly which blade he's running as there are a few bi-metal choices and none seem to fit his description). I spoke with Wud's company has these blades run about half price of a CT. His come directly welded to size from Lenox which I suspect (assumptions!) should work well. Chas suggested Hastings Saw as well for Lenox, which you can see on their web site.

My thought is that I can get a smooth cut out of the Lenox. I don't have the processing capacity (speed rate, et cetera) needs of Bob C (!!!!!!) so the 2x for a CT probably doesn't make sense. Uncle Bob if you don't agree with my assessment, holler at me ...

Filippo


Fillipo here is a link to the WoodmasterB http://www.spectrumsupply.com/woodmasterb.aspx
It's listed under sawmill blades. I use this blade too. Cut is a bit rougher but not bad. Handles the toughest of woods with relative ease. It can be sharpened and should last you a long time. At least I hope it does and I don't see a post titled "Uncle Bob The Reference Standard for Garbage Saw Blade Advice" :P Talk to Al at Spectrum. Great guy, great welds and great service. Buy the way Lenox Welds are among the best there are.

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Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
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The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:08 pm 
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Here is a link to video of Laguna RK blade slicing Bubinga 2mm thick.
http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video. ... 1613363219

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:11 pm 
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Has anyone tried the 1/2" bimetal hook tooth version of the Lennox Diemaster 2 ?

-jd


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:21 pm 
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60 back and side sets of bloodwood cut this month with RK blade.
A little rougher cut than on some species but perfectly straight.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 5:20 pm 
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Nice looking blood wood but quite different than what I'm used to seeing. We usually buy the deep red stuff.

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The Zootman
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:55 pm 
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Now that is some beautiful bloodwood! Is that the same species as the deep red stuff?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:57 pm 
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Bobc wrote:
Nice looking blood wood but quite different than what I'm used to seeing. We usually buy the deep red stuff.


This is the same species as the solid red bloodwood but it is a rare endemic variety that grows at high elevations in the Peruvian Andes.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:15 pm 
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forgottenwoods wrote:
Bobc wrote:
Nice looking blood wood but quite different than what I'm used to seeing. We usually buy the deep red stuff.


This is the same species as the solid red bloodwood but it is a rare endemic variety that grows at high elevations in the Peruvian Andes.


Uh, I want some of that. Plus, you got any harp guitar sized sets?

Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 5:28 pm 
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Hey Flippo,
Thanks for posting this thread. I don't make a ton of money and I have been tempted to buy one of these Laguna blades for a while now. When I was looking for a carbide tipped blade I decided on the Woodmaster CT upon Bob C's recommendation. Couldn't be happier with it. If you aren't going to call Laguna for a fix I still think you should call the guy them for a refund. If they truly believe in their product, they'll take their blades back and issue a refund.

Those blades are way to expensive to not function properly.

To the forgotten Woods sponsor- nice saw & setup, but that's a bit more rigid and much larger than anything most of us here are likely to have. Is that a 2" blade?


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:27 pm 
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Mike O'Melia wrote:
forgottenwoods wrote:
Bobc wrote:
Nice looking blood wood but quite different than what I'm used to seeing. We usually buy the deep red stuff.


This is the same species as the solid red bloodwood but it is a rare endemic variety that grows at high elevations in the Peruvian Andes.


Uh, I want some of that. Plus, you got any harp guitar sized sets?

Mike


We cut it all to Dreadnaught size. LMI bought all we had in stock so if you want a set give them a call, I'm not sure when they will list them.
If you want a harp size set let us know your exact size requirements and we can watch for a billet big enough in the next shipment.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:41 pm 
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fingerstyle1978 wrote:
To the forgotten Woods sponsor- nice saw & setup, but that's a bit more rigid and much larger than anything most of us here are likely to have. Is that a 2" blade?


Yes the saw is bigger and more rigid than most home shops are likely to have. But that is my point I would like to make about the RK blades. The blades do work correctly if the saw is adjusted absolutely correct for the blade. That includes having enough rigidity to remain in alignment during the cut. It only takes a couple inches of incorrect alignment to dull the blade. When the blade gets dull it will start to wonder and there is no leeway. It is a 1.25" blade, I think that is the widest RK they offer. FYI after 6 sharpenings the blade is done.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:37 pm 
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Reading through these it sounds to me like who ever is making Lagunas' coil stock has an out of control process. It could be the metallurgy/heat treat variances, sharpening problems, who knows, but trying to make a case that they're all good or all bad is silly. People are definately not talking about the same blades even though they have the same name and are bought from the same company. Perhaps they're buying their coil stock from China. Just my $.02.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:46 pm 
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I see what you mean Filippo, saying that the RK is just fine if you have the tool and know what your doing suggests that BobC is such a novice at resaw he can't get a HD Laguna set up to cut without premature dulling even though he had a half dozen RKs at his disposal which are now hang'in as ornaments on the wall. Maybe someone from Laguna should drop out to RC tonewoods and give Bob a quick run down on the basics... Makes me wonder though why it is that he was doing OK 'before' the RK's revealed his inexperience, and has done just fine ever since he gave up on them as a lost cause...at least I hope he is doing well, because if he is still going through CT BS blades at that rate he must be losing money hand over fist considering how reasonable his prices are.

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:52 pm 
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Even if it were true that it requires a certain caliber saw, and a precise setup, it probably excludes the majority of the members of this forum, who, if you're like me, are using some variant of a consumer grade saw that is marginally set up, which would mean those blades are useless to us...

My takeaway from this thread is that there are some inconsistencies with materials and/or manufacturing, and their QC is process is letting crappy blades out to the public.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:15 pm 
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Isn't that what I said ? :P

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 11:17 pm 
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forgottenwoods wrote:
fingerstyle1978 wrote:
To the forgotten Woods sponsor- nice saw & setup, but that's a bit more rigid and much larger than anything most of us here are likely to have. Is that a 2" blade?


Yes the saw is bigger and more rigid than most home shops are likely to have. But that is my point I would like to make about the RK blades. The blades do work correctly if the saw is adjusted absolutely correct for the blade. That includes having enough rigidity to remain in alignment during the cut. It only takes a couple inches of incorrect alignment to dull the blade. When the blade gets dull it will start to wonder and there is no leeway. It is a 1.25" blade, I think that is the widest RK they offer. FYI after 6 sharpenings the blade is done.


I won't be buying a Laguna RK. The 1" 1.3tpi woodmaster CT far exceeded my expectations and as a complete novice with the most basic setup, I am able to keep my tolerances very reasonable even on a bad day. I have zero reason to explore further unless I really needed less kerf. Even then I can't see spending on a RK.


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