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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:06 am 
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Cocobolo
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First name: Gary
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Hi Folks...

I'm new to the site, looking forward to meeting y'all.

For my first guitar i'm building a padouk dreadnought. The sides are all bent and fitted nicely in the mould. Now i'm working on the back.

The problem is i got a little carried away with the thickness sander and now i'm worried the back plate is too thin. We are looking at about 2mm - 2.1mm (.827, i think) or so.

What do you folks think? Too thin? Its already sanded up to 180 grit inside, 240 outside.

Thanks in advance.

Gary.

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Last edited by Fasterthanlight on Sun May 08, 2016 11:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:18 am 
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Koa
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.09" is not uncommon for Rosewood --- I'd add a brace or two and use it. I'll qualify by saying I never built with Padouk.

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Last edited by kencierp on Sun May 08, 2016 10:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:30 am 
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Cocobolo
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kencierp wrote:
.09" is not uncommon for Rosewood --- I'd add a brace or two and use it. I'll qualify be saying I never built with Padouk.


Interesting... that works out at 2.2mm... do you think that with final sanding and all i might be cutting it a bit close?

G.

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:38 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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You might be cutting it a bit close but consider this. The taller your braces the stiffer they will be. You can counter a thin back to some degree with taller or additional braces as Ken said.

FYI to some there are basically two schools of thought regarding acoustic guitar, conventional acoustic guitar backs the "reactive" back and the "reflective" back. Reactive backs tend to be thinner and are desirable with the crowd who believe a fine acoustic guitar can benefit from being not unlike a fireplace bellows and have some pumping action. This means that a reactive back is engineered to move a bit.

The reflective back crowd will use thicker plates and mobilize the back to a greater degree they believe that a reflective, less movable back is desirable.

I always built reactive back instruments in so much as it fit well with my desire to build light and I liked the bellows analogy which by the way came from a Luthier named Mario P. who posts here from time to time.

Who's right? Who knows...:) Just like with many questions regarding "tone" it's too subjective to know for sure.

By the way welcome aboard.



These users thanked the author Hesh for the post: Fasterthanlight (Sun May 08, 2016 10:59 am)
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:41 am 
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Koa
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Sorry -- This is one of those times when I should not have posted -- again no experience with Padouk, I am sure some one that does will comment.

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These users thanked the author kencierp for the post: Fasterthanlight (Sun May 08, 2016 10:59 am)
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:44 am 
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Gary: I think that is going to be just fine. I have used Padauk a few times and think it's a super wood. Very stable, nice overtones, easy to work, except for the dust. Not me but I know folks have used backs thinner then yours.
Tom

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These users thanked the author Tom West for the post: Fasterthanlight (Sun May 08, 2016 10:59 am)
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:53 am 
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Cocobolo
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Wow thanks for all the tips guys... great to know i can pick a few brains from time to time.

I think i will go ahead and indeed make the braces a shade taller.

@Tom West. Tell me about the dust!!!?! It gets everywhere.. and, occasionally will dilute a little in water making a kind of messy ink. Oh and don't use a damp rag to clean up squeeze out.

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These users thanked the author Fasterthanlight for the post: Lonnie J Barber (Mon May 09, 2016 7:36 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 11:12 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Hi Gary,

I use padauk a lot. .0827 is a touch on the thin side (don't forget that there zero) for a dread, but as mentioned just add a little height to the braces, no need to add extras. 1/16 extra height will be more an adequate.



These users thanked the author meddlingfool for the post: Fasterthanlight (Sun May 08, 2016 11:25 am)
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 11:25 am 
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Cocobolo
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meddlingfool wrote:
Hi Gary,

I use padauk a lot. .0827 is a touch on the thin side (don't forget that there zero) for a dread, but as mentioned just add a little height to the braces, no need to add extras. 1/16 extra height will be more an adequate.


So you would still use a back like this?

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 11:56 am 
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I like padouk also. It should be fine. Just don't finish sand it anymore than necessary.

In the event you are still worried I would not abandon it. I would veneer a piece on the inside first but this really won't be necessary.

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These users thanked the author Joe Beaver for the post: Lonnie J Barber (Mon May 09, 2016 7:39 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 11:58 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Yes, most definitely! Like I say, it's a touch thin for a dread (or at least thinner than what I do which is around .090) but with tall braces you'll be fine.


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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 1:43 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Great... thanks for the advice.

G.

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PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2016 10:46 pm 
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Mahogany
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2mm would be too thick for me (but depends on the stiffness of that specific piece). The Padauk Dread I'm fininishing at the moment has a back thickness of 1.7mm, with the braces being fairly light too. I want the back to be lively so it adds color to the sound.


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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 12:19 pm 
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Walnut
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I regularly go thinner than 2mm with EIR. I'm sure you'll be just fine. But if you're worried I'd go for an extra brace.
As it happens I've owned a battered old Martin since I was a teenager some 50 years ago (repeat - battered survivor, NOT immaculate collectors piece. But an 0-28 made in 1900 none the less). It has 5 remarkably chunky back braces yet is a feather light guitar. When I started making instruments I didn't have much information so I used 5 back braces, then I went through a stage of following convention with 4, now I'm back using 5 again.


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2016 4:57 am 
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Cocobolo
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Thats some great information folks...

Thaks for the advice.

G.

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