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Does anybody have a process they would like to share for wood purfling on the bottom of a binding strip? I currently line each binding with blue tape on tall sides, then glue en masse to a maple veneer, slice apart, run through drum sander, then bend. I get mixed results. Sometimes very good, others, the purfling separates.

Open to ideas!

Mike

I use Titebond lll for any assemblies that are going through the bending process.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

I'm not sure I'm understanding the question completely, but if I were making up a new set of bindings with purfling lines attached, I would cut a 36" long (or so) by couple of inch wide (or so) strip of the material I wanted to uses for the bindings, and thickness to the desired binding height. (Obviously I need to orient the strip so that the desired grain orientation is achieved). Then, I would laminate veneer sheet or sheets (I'm thinking a triple line for my classical/flamencos) to the strip, glue up and let dry. Then, individual bindings can just be ripped off the glued up sandwich. In his most recent video, Robbie O'Brien suggested titebond 2 or 3 for heat+water resistance during bending.

Any relation to what you were asking? I wouldn't want to do it if the binding strips are already sawed to final shape, but I have done it, usually bending WBW laminated strips on a bending iron. Not a fun part of the operation.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

I use a lot of stuff from Hibdon. So I don't currently have a practical choice. I have to attach to thin strips. Plus I have a bunch of Koa strips as well. I'll try the tite bond III.

The TB3 suggestion is a good one. Also, during bending, you pretty much have to make sure the purfling line has no opportunity to buckle. If you tape the bindings together so that the purfling lines are all tightly nestled between other bindings or lines, then bend, I think that helps your chances.

I also use Titebond III for this.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

I do all of that. TB3 is something I had not considered. So maybe this gets it right.

I glue them on hammer veneer style with hide glue. Slop some glue on, rub with thumbs for a while, more glue, more rubbing, until the whole length is done. Pretty slow and fiddly doing them one strip at a time, but is amazingly tolerant to heat and moisture when bending.

TB3 or Elmers high heat (essentially the same as TB3) for the glue is your friend here Mike.

As for making them, you can use the binder clips if it's just attaching to ready made binding pieces.

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Prompted by the HHG suggestion, I noticed that I didn't say what I glued up my laminations with. Fish glue. If you keep water out of the bending operation, I doubt it would ever let go during bending - it's hard to get a fish glue joint apart with heat alone, if no moisture is involved.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

Ideally I glue sheets of veneer to boards, then cut on table saw and run through sander. Titebond III.
If I have binding pieces without purfling on them, I use clothespins to adhere the strips.

I use white glue but am not married to it for any particular reason; it's just worked for me in the past. Why all the love for Titebond III? Waterproof when steam bending? Heat resistance? Other?

James, This is the only thing I use it for and for me it's the waterproofing and heat resistance of the glue. I haven't had any buckling on tight curves of the purf lines since I switched, maybe 10 yrs or more ago.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com