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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 2:08 pm 
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Cocobolo
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What kind/brand tape are you using for the fret slotting template? All I could find at our Ace was heavy duty mounting tape and it's way too strong.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 2:52 pm 
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A couple of 2" strips of 3m double sided tape. How could it be too strong? Just use less.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 3:17 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Like I said I got heavy duty mounting tape, I thought 3m tape wouldn't be strong enough. Ill try that.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 3:27 pm 
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+1 om the 3M, although I have used other brands and found them fine.

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Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 4:33 pm 
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I use heavy duty double stick tape. I squirt a little naphtha on it when I'm done and it comes right off.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:14 am 
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patch wrote:
What kind/brand tape are you using for the fret slotting template? All I could find at our Ace was heavy duty mounting tape and it's way too strong.


You're not running it along the whole length of the board are you? That would be very excessive. I use a piece about 3/4" wide at each end and one in the middle. Plenty strong enough. And a quick shot of naptha or acetone releases it easy.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:36 am 
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Rod True wrote:
You're not running it along the whole length of the board are you? That would be very excessive. I use a piece about 3/4" wide at each end and one in the middle. Plenty strong enough. And a quick shot of naptha or acetone releases it easy.


No, I just tried a little piece on some scrap and was surprised how strong the pieces stuck and then how hard it was to clean up. Don't have naptha, I'll get some for clean up. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:52 am 
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I wouldn't use the thick foam stuff that is made for hanging stuff on walls.

I use the double stick tape that you use for putting grips on clubs. It is thin and just the right amount of stick. And its cheap. You can buy a big role of it from a seller of golf grips

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 1:00 am 
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patch wrote:
Rod True wrote:
You're not running it along the whole length of the board are you? That would be very excessive. I use a piece about 3/4" wide at each end and one in the middle. Plenty strong enough. And a quick shot of naptha or acetone releases it easy.


No, I just tried a little piece on some scrap and was surprised how strong the pieces stuck and then how hard it was to clean up. Don't have naptha, I'll get some for clean up. Thanks!

Alcohol works too. Also for releasing binding tape without peeling up fibers.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:45 am 
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I have used both fiberglass carpet tape and foam-core double-sided tapes on my first project and on repairs. From the building guide I am using in the shop, with the usual caveats and permissions - hope this helps!

Quote:
C-7 Double-Sided Tapes and Film Adhesives.

A range of double-sided tapes and film adhesives are useful for instrument building, and are generally employed to provide temporary bonding of components to templates or fixtures, as well as more permanent (but still removable) bonding for pickguards outside the body and for microphones, pickups, or controls inside the finished body. These tapes and films include the following:

Double-Sided Carpet Tape (e.g., Shurtech Duck Brand Fiberglass Carpet Double-Sided Tape, which is available in the United States at some home centers, Walmart, and online). The degree of hold is controlled by the number and size of the pieces used, with two square inches (four x 1/4" x 2") pieces being more than sufficient to secure a template to fretboard, and a bit of VM&P naptha applied with a squeeze bottle or disposable pipette breaks the bond for those with low grip strength or on delicate components or materials such as solid wood rosette rings.

Double sided carpet tape is used for most temporary holding jobs where it is appropriate, including routing ply-backed wood rosette rings, holding bridge and nut blanks to carrier boards for dimensioning with thickness sander, radiusing bridge plates prior to installation, holding cauls in place on clamps or inside the body, and pattern routing peg heads.

Double-Sided Foam Core Tapes (e.g., 3M 414P Extreme Mounting Tape, available at home centers and online in the United States) is used where the greater flexibility and vibration absorption characteristics of the foam core is useful, such as mounting pickup system components such as internally mounted preamplifiers, tone and volume controls, or wiring and cabling standoffs. Foam core tapes should not be used for mounting components to templates or fixtures unless the bonding surfaces are sealed and smooth, and the pieces of tape used are large enough to keep distortion of the foam core under side loading (loading in shear plane of adhesive) to a minimum. Like other film adhesives (foam mounting tapes use two layers of film adhesive for adhesion), foam tapes will not reach full holding power immediately - most will require 24 hours of undisturbed drying time to develop full bond strength.


I should mention that any mistakes in punctuation, grammar, or spelling are my responsibility as one of a string of editors responsible for upkeep and correction of the document.

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These users thanked the author Woodie G for the post: patch (Mon Jan 18, 2016 10:44 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 10:14 am 
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See the entry for masking tape, adhesive on both sides.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/122/3498/=10qi2gp

It's made by Intertape. I believe their product code is either DCT100R.
Attachment:
Intertape.pdf


Kevin Looker


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 10:33 am 
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We use hot melt glue on the edges of the blank (we have vacuum system under development) locate the blank on the template we pre-drilled our blanks with two location holes but that is really not that important for one board at a time. Clamp it, glue it -- go.

The best part is to release the board we have a syringe filled with alcohol, squirt a couple of drops on the hot melt and it releases instantly. For me peeling off the double stick tape is a PIA

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:08 pm 
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Masking tape on both surfaces, and superglue between. Very solid connection, and it peels right off.



These users thanked the author Eric Reid for the post (total 2): patch (Mon Jan 18, 2016 10:44 pm) • Jeffrey L. Suits (Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:34 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 4:30 pm 
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Masking tape + CA here too. Spray activator on one side


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:36 pm 
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Mark Fogleman wrote:
Masking tape + CA here too. Spray activator on one side



I recently started doing this, much better results that dblstick tape.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 10:45 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Way helpful! Thanks!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:11 pm 
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I use 1/4 inch wide stuff from the dollar store ... its thin foam in the middle, maybe a 1/16th .. 4 or 5 pieces about an inch long along the board, works great

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 6:08 pm 
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Have to agree with the masking tape CA glue combo. Just make sure to get the tape on good and firm. CA on one half and accelerator on the other half. Far easier and cleaner to get things apart when the time comes. This trick works for just about anything you want to stick down and get unstuck after whatever operation you needed to perform. Wish I could remember where I first saw the idea, so I could give the fellow the credit he deserves.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 11:23 pm 
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I learned this trick here on the OLF:

http://luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=45927&start=0

My thanks to Chris Reed.


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