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What is the sequence for removing a top? Router the bindings off with binding jig, and then the same for removing the top from the linings? I'm not worried about trying to salvage any part of the top.
Top was braced and glued to the rims at about 47%RH, and all was fine, until I lightly dampened the top to raise the grain before WB finish. It's now pretty much flat, and looking to stay that way.
The only real heartbreaking part is losing the spalted maple rosette. It was a perfect match with the headstock and tail wedge. Thanks for any direction you can give me to learn a new skill!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Who says you have to lose it? A good way to rescue rosettes from scrapped tops is to route or chisel through from the back side until you reach the rosette wood.

Strange that it would flatten after being fed water. Usually after drying out, they get stuck in their concave state. But I guess that doesn't go both ways, or else it would have gotten stuck in an overly convex state.

The guitar was pretty much ready for finishing, so there won't be much thickness left to the rosette and purf lines after thinning and sanding, Dennis.
It was pretty fragile spalt to begin with, and it was glued to a 1/64" piece of ply on the back side.
I still have enough to do another rosette, but the ink lines won't be quite as nice.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

If it didn't go concave I would glue a bridge on it and string it up in the white. Flat can be O.K.- many guitars have been built that way. The strings might pull some arch back into the top.

I would want to stop and think about what's going on. What is your shop at right now? To have it go concave after wetting the outside surface is opposite of what you'd expect.

Just came from the shop, and it is 48% RH. I'm confused as to how it went concave, as well.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Have you checked you hygrometer with a wet bulb test?

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

Alex: I would be questioning the accuracy of the RH gauge. Also did you check the arch after gluing or just a quick look. And as Clay says "if it's not concave string it up".
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

This may be of interest if you decide to remove top.
http://www.grevenguitars.com/retopping-demo.html
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

The arch was fine after gluing the braces, after the top was glued to the sides, and up until I dampened the top. Maybe I over carved the braces? They are still tight, with no separation.
Thanks for the Greven link, Tom!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Using the salt test after 12 hours, it looks like my hygrometer is pretty accurate.


Alex


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

I've salvaged rosettes in the past. It's kind of tricky to get it spot on but a good skill to practice. And since you are otherwise trashing it, you've got nothing to lose.
Try this:
carefully measure the actual diameter of the soundhole. Then make a "plug" that exact same size. This is pretty easy by drilling a 1/4" hole and using a circle jig with a trim router. (not sure what your rosette setup is). Then fit the plug into the soundhole of the old top. It might take a touch of shimming with binding tape to get it even and tight. Once it's in, just cut it out of the top with the same router. It will likely end up a touch smaller due to the fact that it's next to impossible to get the plug exactly centered. But I say give it a shot. You can always border it with purfling on the new top.

With the advise give here, and from Steve Denvir, who builds with a true flat top, I am going to finish the guitar, as is, and see how it turns out. I much appreciate the advice given here, as always, and hope to post pictures soon!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

As long as you have the correct fall away from the top of the soundhole to the neck/body joint you should be fine for the flat top idea. I've only ever built one guitar that wasn't a flat top. Olson, Ryan, Hoffman all build flat top guitars by design. I'm in good company.

So a straight edge along the top shows it flat across the grain? How about along the grain?

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