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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:48 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Does anyone buff out the body and neck separately (before gluing the neck to the body) when using a buffing machine with large buffing wheels?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:59 pm 
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Yup.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:00 pm 
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Yep. Just about everyone does it that way.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:09 pm 
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Yeah, it's just easier.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:33 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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It's the only way to do it. Ok, that sounded pompous. Just try and do it with neck attached. DAMHIK


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:37 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Yes, do that. There are no advantages (I think) and many disadvantages to doing it after assembly.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:16 am 
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I started out by building classicals which require finishing with the neck attached if using a Spanish heel. I continued that method when building steel strings until recently, when I started finishing with the neck detached. The biggest benefit for me was the ability to buff out the area at the neck join before joining the neck.. Also makes for a very crisp neck to body transition.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:56 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Yep.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 7:33 am 
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Koa
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Same here. I will buff the neck shaft with my big buffing wheels, but usually switch to some hand buffing where the neck shaft transitions to the headstock. It is really easy to buff through the finish on the corners of the headstock if you're not real careful.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 12:05 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Thanks guys,
Do you see any advantage to reducing the number of buffing wheels to just one wheel thick when doing the neck?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 12:52 am 
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I only use one buff per side.....Hasn't been an issue for me.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:44 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Yup - buffed out as two separate operations here too. Besides it gives me twice the opportunity to have the instrument ripped from my hands and shattered against the floor.....

Seriously though lots of Luthiers have had a guitar either thrown by the buffer or darn near thrown by the buffer. Some use copious amounts of padding, old mattresses, etc. around their buffers in case this happens. I use rubber gloves to get a better purchase on the thing.


Last edited by Hesh on Thu Aug 20, 2015 12:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 11:45 am 
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Koa
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Location: Litchfield MI
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Besides it give me twice the opportunity to have the instrument ripped from my hands and shattered against the floor.....


Yep -- everybody loves their spindle buffer until this happens two minutes before the project is complete. RO auto polishers works for me. I believe it was John Greven that talks about this being the most pressure packed (and unwanted jobs) in the guitar factory where he once worked.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 12:01 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I've come close, but never had it happen. I used a screwed in dovetail grip and an eyebolt in the endpin hole. I sat in a chair, and used the bottom of the buff. That way I could lean into it with my upper leg. Learning which way to buff an area is VERY important.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 12:15 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
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Right you guys are. It's also one of these things that the only way to learn is to accept the risks and go at it.


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