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Any reason not to use alder for an acoustic neck block (bolt-on)? I have off cuts from a couple of teles that I thought I might be able to use... Are there any tone or compatibility issues?

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

I don't see any reason not to, other than tradition. Zillions of Fender electric guitars are made from it. It's reasonably split resistant. FWIW I've used it for anchor blocks for mounting metal arms and what not to furniture at my day job.

Alder bends readily in my experience, all depending on where one lives . I would reinforce it with a harder hdwd.When i lived in van BC , the alder that I had moved considerably.

Ernie - really... Could a neck block move that much?

Have folks used species other than mahogany for neck blocks?

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

I've used spruce, oak, walnut, and cherry that I can think of as alternatives to mahogany. I don't see why Alder wouldn't work.

Properly dried Alder is a joy to work -- I would not hesitate to use it for neck blocks, commercially its widely used for musical instruments including major makers of electric guitars. My son in law is a chef and likes to use it for the planks to broil fish. The European Alder is a different story.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

Hi steve , yes they do move, and yes they can shrink a tiny amount e.g. 1mm . For electrics I am not very knowledgeable. But if you can look at a famous spanish guitar maker named Ignacio fleta. Have a look at the construction process for his internal front neck block for a classical guitar. He is the only noted maker from spain who used a dovetail joint. There are others too. I test my blocks by weighing them on a HF gram scale, measuring and check for movement. What I/m trying to say is that whatever wood you choose to go with on a neck block . You want to reduce shrinkage or movement as much as possible. even for a bolt on