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Where do you like to lay the truss rod longitudinally, relative to the nut?

Do you like the end of the rod to be somewhere near the nut?

Flush to the edge of the nut?

Or do you base its placement on where the adjustment ferrule ends...out of convenience?

Is there a solid reason to do it one way or the other or is it just a preference?

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

I always get it as close to the nut as I can. The ones I use taper at the end. I can usually get it to within 1/2".

Why? Dunno. Monkey see, monkey do...

I like flush to the end of the nut (fretboard side).
This gives a tad bit more wood under the nut.

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wah
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I am happy as long as I am passed the 1st fret.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

As I adjust at the headstock I run mine so the end is below the line of the headstock before the veneer is on....

It is my belief that as long as you get the bearing points of the rod between the nut and first fret your good to go... +/- 1/8" shouldn't matter one way or another.

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I put the end flush with the tenon which works out to about 1/4" shy of the nut.

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I appreciate all your responses.

Is the depth of the adjusting ferrule a big consideration for anyone...in terms of access after the build is finished? More specifically....do you aim to have the adjustment ferrule visible in the adjustment slot....or is perceived as OK if one has to "feel" for it a bit with the wrench because it's recessed a bit?

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I read Emerson on the can. A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds...true...but a consistent reading of Emerson has its uses nevertheless.

StuMusic

For steel string with sound hole access "feeling for it a bit" is pretty much the norm. Doesn't bother me in the least

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I've been using a truss rod like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dual-Type-Aco ... 20de93765c

The ferrule end is just poking through the upper transverse brace, is this OK or a bad design? Access is certainly easy.

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We are all in the gutter but some of us are looking at guitars.

rule of thumb for me is 2x rod width inboard from the nut with soundhole adjustment, all the way through the neck block extension (which i place against the utb). i use the longest rods i can fit and use non-standard scales a lot of times so finding the right length takes some work, and i have to compromise. i may start making my own rods someday.

If I can ask a related question.what do people think of using a one way Martin style truss rod but using it work access at the headstock Gibson style? Thanks all.

that would be a recipe for disaster. On Gibson's they use a compressive rod , basically a long bolt ,and this can use a shallower slot. A Martin style 1 way will remove too much wood and your will run a higher risk of a weak zone at the headstock that may result in a crack or broken neck.
I will not use any truss rod that has a weld or silver solder on a threaded rod, This create a stress riser. I use 3 that failed and will never go through that again. The martin design doens't use this but uses a cylinder that has a captured barrel nut. This is welded to the dead side of the rod so the adjusted side has not welds. I have not seen one fail yet.
http://www.martinguitar.com/guitar-make ... etail.html

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

This last guitar I used a single action truss rod, the kind you epoxy in. I set the truss rod so the end of the nut was just inset into the heel block, about 1/4" or so (as if you were looking in through the sound hole). The other end of the truss rod was about at the first fret. Worked fine. The 5mm long 90 degree bended wrench that Stew Mac sells will find the hole just fine.