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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:32 am 
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I am installing carbon fiber rods in the neck. The photos I see on the forum of this do not have the CF rods covered. Is it necessary to have the CF rods flush with the surface of the neck or can they be slightly recessed (.010" to .020) in some places. When I glue the fretboard on the neck the glue should fill that void.

Do you see any problems with that line on thought?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:40 am 
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Flush is best but the amount you are talking should be fine.



These users thanked the author DannyV for the post: EddieLee (Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:12 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:00 am 
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You can always install wood filler strips over the top if there are gaps. In fact the deeper in the neck they are, the more stiffness they will add to it, as they are further away from the neutral point and will take up more of the strain.

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These users thanked the author PeterF for the post: EddieLee (Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:12 am)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:14 am 
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Thanks, I think next time I will put them a little deeper with a spline on top that I can plane flat. Like I do my truss rod.

Wood filler could work.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 3:27 pm 
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EddieLee wrote:
Thanks, I think next time I will put them a little deeper with a spline on top that I can plane flat. Like I do my truss rod.

Wood filler could work.


That is the method I use, and it works well.

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These users thanked the author Josh H for the post (total 2): Ken Jones (Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:24 pm) • EddieLee (Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:52 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 4:01 pm 
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One of my fears, other than clowns, is the possibility of carving through to the CF when carving the neck. I'm not sure how much is left under the CF on my necks. I guess I could figure it out. 21mm at the 1st fret minus 7/16th for the FB. 3/8" CF sitting 1/8" either side of the truss rod. Radius at the first fret is............ Maybe next time I'll drill a hole through the bottom of the slot to measure how much is left. Or invest in a Hacklinger gauge. :lol:



These users thanked the author DannyV for the post: EddieLee (Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:53 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:19 pm 
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I have installed them just a hair proud, then sanded them down flush. It works great.



These users thanked the author doncaparker for the post (total 2): Chris Pile (Thu Sep 11, 2014 6:33 pm) • EddieLee (Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:53 pm)
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:58 pm 
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Another advantage to covering them with wood is that you can use epoxy on the spline, and hide glue or whatever you prefer on the fingerboard. Otherwise, you need epoxy on the fingerboard or it won't bond well to the top of the CF strip, so you may lose some of the stiffness benefit.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 6:36 pm 
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Quote:
I have installed them just a hair proud, then sanded them down flush. It works great.


My technique, too - but be careful of sanding. It creates harmful fibers - don't inhale them. I do my sanding in front the spray booth, so the fibers are drawn into the filters. Suggest you use some scrapers. They make bigger dust, harder to inhale.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:01 pm 
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"Maybe next time I'll drill a hole through the bottom of the slot to measure how much is left. Or invest in a Hacklinger gauge. :lol:"

One way I check to see how much wood is under the truss rod slot is to use the projecting end of my dial or vernier caliper to measure the depth of the slot, use the jaws to measure the thickness of the neck at that point, then subtract the two measurements to find out what's left.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:01 pm 
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Clay S. wrote:
"Maybe next time I'll drill a hole through the bottom of the slot to measure how much is left. Or invest in a Hacklinger gauge. :lol:"

One way I check to see how much wood is under the truss rod slot is to use the projecting end of my dial or vernier caliper to measure the depth of the slot, use the jaws to measure the thickness of the neck at that point, then subtract the two measurements to find out what's left.

That would certainly work well if the CF was in the centre of the neck. Being on either side of the truss rod makes it a little more difficult to get an accurate measurement. But yes, one could measure the gap between the neck and caliper where on the neck radius the CF lines up and................ flush works. I'm sure it can be done. Where's Todd Stock when you need him. :)

Might work with a micrometer. I don't own one though.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 5:15 am 
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DannyV wrote:
Where's Todd Stock when you need him. :)

Alive and well on the MIMF ...



These users thanked the author murrmac for the post: Pmaj7 (Sat Sep 20, 2014 2:13 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:38 am 
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Thanks to all. Good comments.

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These users thanked the author EddieLee for the post: Lonnie J Barber (Fri Sep 12, 2014 12:59 pm)
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 1:30 pm 
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To someone totally illiterate of what were talking about. What are the dimensions one should use when installing a CF rod?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 2:35 pm 
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DannyV wrote:
One of my fears, other than clowns, is the possibility of carving through to the CF when carving the neck. I'm not sure how much is left under the CF on my necks. I guess I could figure it out. 21mm at the 1st fret minus 7/16th for the FB. 3/8" CF sitting 1/8" either side of the truss rod. Radius at the first fret is............ Maybe next time I'll drill a hole through the bottom of the slot to measure how much is left. Or invest in a Hacklinger gauge. :lol:



Draw a picture of the profile and measure with a ruler.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 9:56 am 
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The dimensions of the CF rod is what I meant to say. As there are CF rods listed on eBay. While I'm asking does the addition of CF rods improve a guitar neck?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 10:49 am 
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For me and everyone's that I've seen use two 3/8" x 1/8", but it's by no means gospel.

Most are after increased neck stiffness while only adding a little weight. Some, say they increase tone quality, but I think the jury is still out...

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 11:55 am 
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Thanks Pat


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 3:39 pm 
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DannyV wrote:
One of my fears, other than clowns, is the possibility of carving through to the CF when carving the neck. I'm not sure how much is left under the CF on my necks. I guess I could figure it out. 21mm at the 1st fret minus 7/16th for the FB. 3/8" CF sitting 1/8" either side of the truss rod. Radius at the first fret is............ Maybe next time I'll drill a hole through the bottom of the slot to measure how much is left. Or invest in a Hacklinger gauge. :lol:



Been there, done that. So, it turns out how far from center you place them also matters :( The same rod placed 1/4" from the centerline won't carve through. Place it 5/8" from center and suddenly you blew it. You have to figure your own measurements, just be aware that there is yet another parameter in laying it out.


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