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Have any of you had luck resawing boards that aren't flat?

I've seen some fence setups with a small curved surface fence or just of piece of round rod that you guide the piece against but it looks challenging to say the least. My best resawing has always been done with flat boards held tight against a tall, fairly long fence.

Here's what I need to resaw, it's about 1.08 thick & I need 5 slices, some dark brown wood that smells nice.

Thanks in advance,
Kevin Looker

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I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
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you can try and saw this with the up curve towards the fence.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
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I have used big clamps and a "strongback" (a thick fairly wide board on edge) and a block of wood to bow the board the other way. After a week or two it can temporarily flatten the wood enough to resaw it.
Another method might be to kerf it with a slot cutter (in a router) and then use the "nail in kerf" method to resaw it ( but I haven't tried this).
If it is high dollar material I would go with the first method and be patient .

Glue 3/4"plywood on one side of your bowed/ cupped stock and flatten the plywood on your jointer! Now just resaw with flat plywood side against the fence. Works great!

I've had success using cauls to match the curve attached to the fence. I don't like hand pushing but sometimes that bent wood is just to valuable. It's one of those times to be very patient and methodical. Tim

I agree with John Hall. But be sure to keep the cupped side of the board facing away from your fence. Also, remember that the board might release some more internal stress as you cut it. I don't think that will be a huge issue. Even if the saw kerf closes up behind the cut, it is not likely to pinch your blade. You will obviously need to concentrate and keep the outer curve of your board kissing the fence right next to the teeth, but I think it'll all work out.

2longer plywood boards glued into a sandwich with the cupped board in the center, for resawing into veneers, Safer

That doesn't appear to be cupped, just a little curvature along the long axis.
I've used a short shopmade fence, actually a 1x4 with 1x4s screwed to each side, that clamp to a 1x4 clamped to the sawtable.
I use this or something similar for all my resawing. Curvature along the long axis is no problem, I feed by hand and can adjust the alignment as I'm cutting. I use a featherboard clamped to the table, and I hold the top against the fence manually.
Here's a shot, but all you can see is the top of the 1x4 fence.

It's a staged shot, I wasn't actually cutting when the shot was taken.

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you can do that. Put the convex side toward the fence and support it with a hold in right in front of the cut line. I use a spring loaded wheelie/jiggie thinga ma jig for a hold in. Smoothify the convex face you are riding against the fence. Have enough spring loaded pressure to keep it against the fence at point of cut and not necessarily relying on the (maybe/maybe not) squared, jointed edge

I've used a point fence in situations like this. not the best for all resawing, but it certainly has its place.

Thanks for all the replies.

I'm going to attempt a "point fence" setup but I'm going to practice on some lesser wood before attempting the piece of BRW.

Kevin Looker

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Kevin: Don't do very much resawing but what I have done was with a single point fence. Works OK, but may want to pull the blade one way or the other. Slight turning of the wood to change the angle of feed usually worked for me to correct the problem. You may well be aware of this but just wanted to point it out in case and for others. Also keeping the wood to the fence is key but be careful of digits.........we don't get seconds of those.
Tom

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