Official Luthiers Forum!

When you finally get to the point of gluing the neck and getting to the initial set up there are a few things you may need to think about. The guitar is not a static structure. It will move. So the first thing is the neck set and position of the bridge in relation to that. Assuming that you did a dry set before finish you still check the neck to the body. This is on a Steel String
NOTE: THE BRIDGE IS TO BE SET TO THE NECK CENTER LINE ON THE BODY NOT THE BODY CENTER LINE
Also you want the neck angle so the target height of final set up is about 1/2 inch. Also this is a drop in saddle. If I were doing a through saddle I would want to end with about .150 saddle height.

So to proceed we check the neck angle and center line to the body. I Use the tail as my target using tape. I also check the center line with the tapers and the neck center. I want the appearance of the strings to match this taper as best we can. My height target is 3/8 inch at the saddle position.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Once I am happy with the neck I adjust the fit of the heel. I finish my neck separate from the body so the heel needs to be cleaned up for that nice tite look and when I am happy I glue it on. I use HHG or fish glue. I use a leather pad when I glue on necks to lessen the chance to mar the finish.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

When I position the bridge I like to ad 1/10 in for intonation . So nut to 12th times 2 plus .1 so in this case 25.4 + .1 = 25.5 . I use a jig I made but I do follow the line of the 1st string on this measurement and ad 1/8 to the 6th string. I lay tape at the point of the bridge and the first mark is the front of the bridge.
To get the bridge centered and that it looks right I will use the 6th and 1st string for a visual. I set the bridge to the neck centerline. Apply tape at the end and then lay the strings and take a measurement of the strings in relation to the edge of the fret board . Once this is set I can now drill a 3/16 hole through 1 or 6. Double check and then I set a golf tee into the 1st hole and drill the 2nd. I add a 2nd tee and trace the position of the bridge with a pencil and cut the tape with a fresh razor blade. I only remove the bridge footprint tape and use the rest as a protector pad and remove the finish. I use my inlay tool but a dremel will do as well. After that I sand the wood to be sure is is flat and pristine . Then I bevel the edge of the bridge just a bit so it lays dead on the top wood.
Now with the placement established I adjust the bridge . I want a straight edge laying on the fret plane. I assume you dressed the frets so the fret plane is dead flat . I want the fret plane to be about 1/16 to 3/32 off the top of the bridge , a drill bit makes a good gauge for this. On my test I found that I was about .030 off the top and removed a little off the bottom of the bridge. One reason I do this is I know the top will rise a little. My final set up I want the height at the bridge to be about 1/2 in. This is all so important to get the most out of the guitar and to make the guitar play well. Then I set in my saddle and adjust this to 2/32 on 1 and 3/32 on 6. At this point my saddle height without a string load is .200. I expect the top to rise. When settled in I should see a .150 to .180 saddle height.
I then glue it on.
NOTE:
To be more specific on the placement , without a jig you a good measuring device , and follow the line of the string and to the front of the saddle on a 3/32 saddle is my measuring point. If I am using a 1/8 saddle I will go in about 1/4 the thickness of the saddle. I use a 3/32 saddle and measure to the front of the saddle. So 1st string is 25.5 and 6th is 25.625 If this were a 24.9 scale it would be 25 and 25.125
Be sure you base this off the actual fretboard you are using. Don't assume the scale length as one supplier may be different from another and if your saddle placement is off , so will the intonation.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Excellent description on a part of the build process that is probably the most challenging for new builders.
I notice you don't tape off the top where the neck and bridge are glued.
What is your favored approach for removing the finish in these areas before gluing?
And do you chamfer the bridge bottom?

Rob

actually I do tape off under the fretboard extension but finalize that with my inlay tool. I like to let room for power buffing . Yes I do chamfer the bridge bottom

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

More good stuff from you, John. When I was building my first, your videos on fitting the dovetail got me through that process. It IS rather daunting for the first timer.

Thanks for sharing your experience with the rest of us.....

you are most welcome I am here to help

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

My favorite was John's excellent "Driving the bus" tutorial on using the radius dish and a 1" steel pipe centered through the mold for profiling the sides.
Been using that method since #2...

I think you guys mean to say you create a ledge or a rabbit on the bottom of the bridge. A chamfer is a bevel, typically but not always 45°. That would be a bad thing on a bridge bottom and you really couldn't do a bevel on a bridge bottom, just the edge.
L.

_________________
Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

I use my inlay tool and set the depth by checking at the holes I drilled. I usually take about .010 off. My finish is about .006 to .008 and If anything I know I want to be on clean wood. Keeping the outer tape on also protects the top as I rout off the finish. Then I use a small sanding block to level the machine marks.
The bevel or chamfer lets the bridge set clean and it lifts the corner so it isn't a stress riser on the finish that can cause whisker cracks.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Great info, THANKS John

_________________
Say what you do, Do what you say.

Agreed, excellent info, and timely!
I have until now sprayed with the neck and bridge attached - classical style - but with my current 3 builds I will spray with the neck and bridge off - so am planning the steps...

Wish I would have used the method described: removing the finish under the bridge area. I dry fit the neck/body and taped that area off, then I french polished the body. I did a tiny bit of final fitting of the neck joint when the finish was done. Now that it's time to glue down the bridge the bridge location is off by a tiny bit. UGH!!! So I'm ending up doing touch up work anyway.

I'll have to try that method for the next one.

John, I find all your videos and posts really helpful. I used the information from your inlay video and was successful!

Thanks much.

3/32 bit to rout the finish off Fillipo I can get it ready in about 2 min.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it