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I'm building my first buffer. It's only for new builds with EM6000. I already have or have ordered a 1.25" DOM steel axle, pillow blocks, wheel flanges, and motor.

For wheels, I'm thinking of the Grizzly 12.5" x 12 ply, T24289 (bottom left): http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2014/Main/224
The 12.5" 16 ply is discontinued. 17" is an option, but a big jump in cost if I need lots of them. How wide of a path does a 12-ply wheel cut, and how many 12-ply wheels should I use per side? I plan to sand to 1000 grit, and am wondering if I just need the Menzerna Fine compound (which would cut my initial wheel order in half, only using 1 side of the buffer, so could go 17" if that's a big help). Or, do most people recommend the Extra Fine, as well?

For a pulley that fits a 1.25" axle, the best price I can find is http://www.ebay.com/itm/380491634239, $20 unwelded.

I've heard buffers make a mess. Is the mess flung mostly radially, mostly down to the ground, or mostly into the air (or mostly onto your newest white shirt)?

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David Malicky

David, I can't help with the wheel questions, but I can definately tell you the compound GOES EVERYWHERE. I use Menzerna and the powder swirls and flies all over. I am bald-headed and I have it coating my scalp when I'm done. I use both Course and Fine compounds.

I use 14" airway buffs, two per side. The 12's will work fine as well. The important part is getting the rpm's correct for the wheel size to provide the correct speed in feet per minute. The dust does go everywhere. You can catch some of it with a hood and a dust collection system but not all of it. I find it is quicker to buff than to sand, even with the wheel changes. I sand to 600 dry and then buff through three compounds and a final hand clean and glaze.

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

I don't use a power buffer and prefer to do all of my buffing by hand. I use to paint cars and have used a hand buffer many many times. I also have a friend who owns a buff shop so I am very familiar with the process.

The one thing I can warn about is to keep the area clean and don't let the "fuzz" pile up. It is extremely flammable and can start a pretty big blaze in just seconds. The wool is thrown off along with compound and can pile up in corners and places you would never think like rafters and on top of surfaces.

I prefer to do all of my buffing by hand for a couple of reasons but mainly I like the tactile feel of buffing a finish to a high gloss. The other reason is I have seen buffing wheels spit out parts and I wouldn't want to see a clients guitar or one I have spent hours building in splinters on the floor.

I can understand why people would want a power buffer since it takes a fraction of the time to buff something to a very high gloss but caution is warranted when using them.

Just my 2c

Cheers,
Bob

Thanks, all! Since the dust goes everywhere, I'll run it in our woodshop which has great dust collection (3000 cfm).

Brian, Good to hear the 12s will be fine. Yes, I'll slow the wheels down to about 800rpm. I see your point on buffing being faster, and I could use the practice, so will go with 2 per side, both sides, Medium and Fine.

Bob, Thanks for the warning on the hazards! I don't anticipate doing a lot of buffing, but we'll be sure to clean everywhere. I've read Todd's advice on padding the floor, and have some thick foam for that. Also will practice on a 'scrap' guitar.

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David Malicky