Official Luthiers Forum!

Which glue is best to use for laminating wood binding with purfling before bending (that can withstand the heat of bending)?

Thin CA has worked well for me.

HHG providing you don't introduce too much moisture. Powdered resin wood glue will take both serious heat and masses of water.

I use titebond and rarely if ever get any delamination .. works for me ...

_________________
Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

regular titebond, no cheap white glue

Titebond II works best in this case. Amazing how much heat it will take and not delaminate.

Time bond or LGI white works for me. The glue will soften under heat but will rebound if you let it cool while the purfling and binding are still in close contauct.

_________________
Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I used Titebond 1 for years, and it worked pretty well. I did not like T2, and don't recall trying it for this use. Lately I've gone to using T3, and it's the best so far.

Thanks everyone. It seems there are many varying opinions. I think I will use Titebond 1 for now and see what happens since that's what I have on hand.

T1 works OK for most bends, but I find I get delamination when bending for Venetian cutaways. I find LMII glue gets around most of those problems. If you get delamination, just use a spring clamp to squeeze it down and it will stick fine when it's cool (you can't do that with CA, epoxy etc.). If you use multi-line purfling and LMII glue, the chances are that the purfling manufacturer's glue line will give out before yours.

_________________
Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

When bending put the bindings in pairs with purfling back to back and tape them together. Tape closer together in the bends. This helps to prevent collapse of the purfling if the glue does give a bit. I generally bend 3 or 4 pairs at a go.
Tom

_________________
A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

If I get a delamination when bending muti-strip purfling or binding, reglue with titebond or ca?
Does it matter?

Has anyone ever tried laminating a veneer onto a flat side, then bending it it a heat blanket bender?

I'd think the best chance would to bend it dry and as low and slow as you can manage?

MikeyV asked:
"Has anyone ever tried laminating a veneer onto a flat side, then bending it it a heat blanket bender?"

All the time. I cut a piece of binding wood about 1/4" by 1" or so, laminate the side purfling on the wide side using Titebond 3, and rip off the binding strips. These are taped together on their sides, 2 by 2 (so you end up with two lefts and two rights...), with the purfling lines inward. Use a tape every couple of inches, and pull the tapes as tight as you can. This helps keep the purfling lines from buckling as they are bent sideways. Then just bend the bundle in the side bender as usual. Note that if you are going to use 'Super Soft' you'll need to tie the binding strips together, winding the bundle tightly with thread. SS is a really effective solvent for the stickum on tape....

So, if I may extrapolate, if you can do this with 1" strips for bindings/purflings, one could theoretically do it with a whole guitar side?

I want to avoid (if possible) building a inner and outer mould to apply rosewood veneer onto a pre-bent side. I want to laminte the veneer onto the side flat, then put the dried laminate in a side bender.

I suspect that Titebond II or III might be a good glue for this (if it's possible). It seems that it might soften to allow the bend to occur, but stay intact enough under the heat.

Thanks guys!