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I have a collection of cut-offs from backs and sides and various scraps that I was wondering if they would work as bridge patches. Some were intended for headplates. Most of these are quarter-sawn. Is it a bad idea to use quarter-sawn wood for bridge patches? ...otherwise, would these be suitable?

-Cocobolo
-Black limba
-Ebony
-Lacewood
-Bubinga
-Koa
-African blackwood
-Black Walnut

I also have IRW, BRW, and Maple. I know they're good for bridge patches...
Thanks,
Steve

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

My bridge plates usually include CF, so the requirement reduces to hardness. So for mine that would take out koa and walnut at least. Blackwood and Ebony are plenty hard enough but very dense, so extra mass where you could do without it. Not a show stopper, though. Coco can be hard to glue, but otherwise good. Never used black limba, lacewood or bubinga, so can't say.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

Maybe I should just stick with rosewood and maple... Thanks.

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Steve Sollod (pronounced sorta like "Solid")
www.swiftcreekguitars.com

Trevor, If you wouldn't mind. What sort of lay up do you do with CF? I deal with Dragonplate and they have such a variety of material it gets one imagination going.

Thanks,
Danny

I epoxy the soundboard where the bridge plate goes, put a layer of cloth down, wet it out then put the bridge plate on top of that.

Some guys laminate up the bridge plate and cloth, then final shape the bridge plate when it's set up, then glue the laminate down. They do it that way because they find it easier to handle. I don't know anyone using pre-cast CF/epoxy sheet, but prepared properly, I don't see why you couldn't.

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Trevor Gore, Luthier. Australian hand made acoustic guitars, classical guitars; custom guitar design and build; guitar design instruction.

http://www.goreguitars.com.au

I just use whatever offcuts I can get that's approximately the hardness of rosewood (like Padauk, Bubinga, etc.). This means do not use mahogany! I orient the grain to be parallel with the soundboard, this hardens it against torque of the bridge and prevents that dreaded crack across the string holes on the bridge. I have not done it long enough to see how it will do long term however.

For added insurance I guess you can always line the bridge plate with some brass sheet...

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com