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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 12:50 pm
Posts: 729
Location: United States
First name: John
Last Name: Lewis
City: Newnan
State: Georgia
Zip/Postal Code: 30265
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
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enricopg wrote: Anyway, guys, I noticed that all but one internet versions miss a part. The missing part is the "leveling session", in which Milburn levels first with 400 grit paper, adds some more body sessions and levels again with 800 grit paper with oil as a lubricant. At first I was unaware of this missing part and my french polish technique was inadequate. Later on I discovered the leveling session and it was a completely different story. Just for your information. I looked at the downloadable Word document that Waddy linked to and the leveling section is missing. Just add the below section to the Word doc in between the Spiriting and Glazing sections. I got this from the Milburn website via The Wayback Machine. Unfortunately, the pictures weren't archived for this website, but they aren't really needed. Leveling
By Orville and Robert Milburn
It usually requires at least 4 to 5 full (body) sessions before we are ready to “rough” level the guitar. The beginner is advised to give the guitar as many as 8 full (body) sessions before attempting the rough leveling process because the actual amount of shellac applied may not be suitable for leveling. This is also to assure that there has been enough material applied to the guitar to sand out the ridges, waves, corrugations and other imperfections without burning through to the wood. The rough leveling is completed using a soft bottom block along with wet or dry sand paper. There are very few perfectly flat areas on a typical guitar, therefore, if a hard block were used, the corners would cut deep riffs into the finish. A soft bottom sanding block is a must for our leveling. A rubber block or a cork bottom wood block is ideal. For our rough leveling, we will use 400 grit wet or dry sand paper with oil as a lubricant. It is always a good idea to soak the sandpaper with oil for a little while before it is used to make the backing softer and pliable.
Start leveling by wiping a small area with olive oil. Also, wipe a little oil onto the sandpaper wrapped sanding block. Using circular strokes and begin sanding the back of the guitar. If too much oil is used, the block will glide over the oil without sanding. If too little oil is used, the sandpaper will load. Very soon, you will find the right combination and the sanding will go smoothly. With good light, you will see that the ridges and waves are becoming level. Wipe off the areas often as you sand to check your work. When the back of the guitar is perfectly smooth, switch to the sides of the guitar.
For the sides of the guitar we will not use a sanding block. Cut a 5" x 5" piece or 400 grit wet or dry paper. Fold in half, add oil, and start sanding using the palm of you hand. You will be able to feel the ridges and waves in the side of the guitar. Sand in circular motions over the sides of the guitar until the sides feel and look perfectly smooth. Wipe off the oil as you sand an area. You will be able to see at a glance how smooth your work is. You will be able to see all of the ridges, imperfections and corrugations that have been missed. No doubt you will sand through to the wood in some spots. This will tell you that you did not have enough finish on the guitar, or there was too many ridging and waves created while bodying up the guitar. The ridges and waves are usually caused from uneven application of the shellac. As you gain more experience your work will become more and more even. It is not to worry, a couple of more bodying sessions will correct the problem.
Sand the neck of the guitar using the palm of you hand as you did with the sides. Wipe frequently to check your work. When you are ready to sand the top of the guitar, switch back to the sanding block. Sand the top using (you guessed it) circular patterns. The circular sanding will tend to remove shallows, ridges, and corrugations. Be sure to sand the edges of the guitar to remove any defects in the perimeter of the guitar and next to the finger board. When satisfied with the sanding you will need to apply three or four more body sessions to the guitar. If you have a number of “burnthroughs” you may want to repeat couple of additional sessions so that we will be ready for the final leveling.
Lets recap the rough leveling procedure . . .
1. Use only a rubber block or cork bottom wood block wrapped with 400 grit wet or dry sand paper to level the guitar back and top.
2. Sand the sides and neck using a 5" x 5" folded piece of 400 wet or dry sand paper using the palm of your hand.
3. Use olive oil as a lubricant for sanding.
4. Always use circular motions while sanding.
5. Wipe down the sanded area frequently to check your work.
As we said before, if you have burn throughs during the rough leveling, you the entire guitar without burn throughs, three additional sessions will be all that is necessary. Now, you may proceed to finish bodying up the guitar for the final leveling procedure . . .
Apply one more body session which should be about 8 sessions for the beginner. Now, examine the entire guitar for any defects. You should be looking for sink outs, roll overs (where excess shellac is left on the edges of the guitar), and scratches. The micro scratches from the 400 grit sandpaper will fill very rapidly. You will have to fill any sink outs with super glue and any deep scratches will have to have additional body sessions with light sanding between.
When applying the final body sessions, remember to use the blot test and watch for the tell tale cloud behind your muneca. At least twice during each body session, press the muneca at an angle against the corners of the guitar and firmly add shellac to the entire perimeter of the guitar. The corners around the edges of the guitar are a high wear area and should receive extra finish. Be certain that the machine slots and the heel joints get special attention. These areas are often overlooked simply because they are difficult to contend with.
When the guitar is defect free and you have the last body sessions (4 to 5) applied, we are ready to complete the final leveling. For this you will need your sanding blocks and will use 800 grit wet or dry sand paper. The procedure is exactly the same as the rough sanding. Wipe on a little olive oil and begin sanding using circular patterns. Wipe off the oil often to inspect your work. Use the sanding blocks for the back and top of the guitar and use the 5" x 5" folded 800 grit paper in the palm of you hand to do the sides and neck. When satisfied with the sanding job, and if there are no burn throughs, we are ready to “glaze” the guitar.
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John Lewis
Wannabe builder owned by 2 crazy dachshunds
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