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Steven Bollman
PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:08 pm 
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I have a nice head plate of Palo Escrito and notice it is very lightweight and very hard. I wonder how it would be for a bridge plate. Any thoughts? I also have a piece of madagascar rw that I could use. Also, I realize now that I have a 12' radius (more or less cylindrical) that the bridge plate will need to be curved also. Do I have that right, or does it flatten out the soundboard under the bridge?
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Tom West
PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 7:24 am 
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Steven: Certainly two good parameters for bridge plates are light weight and being very hard. Have never used Palo Escrito so I can't speak to that. You also want material that does not have a tendency to crack. Also ring porous woods are not favorites. Maple is a very good material that sees widespread use on all fronts. Cut your plate so that the grain lines will not line up with the bridge pin holes. Rift cut wood is widely used. Also when you drill your pin holes use a back up caul to prevent splintering of the plate on drill break through. Have never used such a tight radius as 12' on a top, I use about 30' and do not bother to radius the glue surface of the plate. I just allow the X braced top to form the plate.
Tom

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These users thanked the author Tom West for the post: Steven Bollman (Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:58 am)
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Steven Bollman
PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 9:03 am 
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Tom West wrote:
Steven: Certainly two good parameters for bridge plates are light weight and being very hard. Have never used Palo Escrito so I can't speak to that. You also want material that does not have a tendency to crack. Also ring porous woods are not favorites. Maple is a very good material that sees widespread use on all fronts. Cut your plate so that the grain lines will not line up with the bridge pin holes. Rift cut wood is widely used. Also when you drill your pin holes use a back up caul to prevent splintering of the plate on drill break through. Have never used such a tight radius as 12' on a top, I use about 30' and do not bother to radius the glue surface of the plate. I just allow the X braced top to form the plate.
Tom



Thanks Tom. I know I'm taking some chances (heck, the whole guitar project is a chance) since I don't really know what I'm doing, but I was struck with it's lightweight and hardness. I poked it with a sharp awl. Tried to scratch it and found it very tough. I'm not certain if I glued it at the correct sequence, but all the braces except the UTB and the other one in the upper bout were glued in first. I glued the X-brace first. After taking it off the Go-bar deck this morning it looks good. It's holding the radius. It's thickness was a little under 3.5mm.
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Tom West
PostPosted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 1:16 pm 
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Steven: A thickness of 2.5 mm or .100" would be closer to what I would use for a plate.
Tom

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These users thanked the author Tom West for the post: Steven Bollman (Fri Oct 18, 2013 3:26 pm)
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Mike Collins
PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 12:33 pm 
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Tom gave you great advise.
Especially about the thickness.

Just prebend the plate to match the radius.
Next time.


Mike

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These users thanked the author Mike Collins for the post: Steven Bollman (Sat Oct 19, 2013 1:49 pm)
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Steven Bollman
PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 1:50 pm 
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Thx, Mike. What do you mean by pre-bend? Do you mean shape by sanding?
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Mike Collins
PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 2:38 pm 
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No;
heat bending -just like the sides.


Mike

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These users thanked the author Mike Collins for the post: Steven Bollman (Mon Oct 21, 2013 3:42 pm)
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Steven Bollman
PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 3:43 pm 
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Mike Collins wrote:
No;
heat bending -just like the sides.


Mike



Oh, ok! thx.
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