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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 12:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 10:17 am
Posts: 295
First name: Linus
City: Brooklyn
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Zip/Postal Code: 11215
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Still very new to this (working on #2 and #3) and wonder when most of you guys drill the holes in the headstock for your tuners?

Before pore filling?
After pore filling but before applying the finish?
After applying the finish but before the final sanding/buffing?
After buffing?

And why do you do it at that stage?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 12:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:04 am
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First name: Chris
Last Name: Pile
City: Wichita
State: Kansas
Country: Good old US of A
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
I test assemble the complete instrument before finishing... just in case.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 1:32 pm 
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First name: jack
Country: usa
Good advice from Chris


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 1:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:35 pm
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First name: Joe
Last Name: Beaver
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I drill pilot holes in the head stock before finish with the drill press. I make them small enough so when I drill later with a forstner bit they work well in guiding the bit. After finish I do that drilling with a hand held and go in from both sides so as not to harm the finish. Before I did it that way I would sometimes have a chip out on the back side while drilling

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These users thanked the author Joe Beaver for the post: nyazzip (Sat Oct 19, 2013 11:59 pm)
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:34 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:15 pm
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I drill after finish and final buff. I drill through the front with a very sharp brad point into a backing block. I find that if the holes are there before buffing, compound gets stuck on the edge of the holes and its generally harder to buff.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 2:55 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
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Location: Alexandria MN
I always drill the holes before finish. I've tried countersinking for bushings (geared tuners) both before and after. I do it before now and clean out the pore filler and buffing compound residue with an 11 blade and reamer after finish. That has worked well. I know a lot of guys ream the countersink after finish but I always got a little chipping with that. Even doing it at low RPM on a drill press with everything clamped up.

You guys that use the StewMac bushing counter sinks after finish successfully, what's your technique, RPM, etc.?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:49 pm 
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City: Professional Sawdust Maker
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Personally me likes to wait until the full moon or some other sort of auspicious astrological event before doing any drilling...you know ...to help stay in touch with the universal flow of things.... laughing6-hehe

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 12:14 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 11:54 pm
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Location: Miami, FL
First name: Michael
Last Name: Schreiner
City: Miami
State: FL
Zip/Postal Code: 33183
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
I like to drill holes before finishing in lacquer. The only issue I have is during wet sanding. Sometimes the water used during wet sanding swells the unsealed wood at the edges of the holes a bit. It then shrinks back leaving slight creases in the leveled surface. I have tried leveling that area without water and that seems to help although a large flat sanding block is necessary to achieve a perfect surface. For me, drilling holes through a leveled, high gloss finish is like drilling through glass. Also drilling for an acoustic guitar strap button is the other problem.

Michael


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 1:42 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Focus: Repair
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That's the nice thing about French Polish, you never have lifting or other issues because the finish is so thin that you get more reaction from the wood than the finish itself. It is literally like bare wood. If you do scratch the finish after that for whatever reason you can always touch it back up.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2013 10:18 am 
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Walnut
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:54 am
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First name: Chuck
Last Name: Gilbert
City: Magnolia
State: Texas
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Status: Amateur
I drill before I've reached the final thickness for the headstock. I always thickness from the back and that way I remove any tear out.

Chuck


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