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I am currently working on my first build. What are the dimensions of the neck block, I know the length is the depth of the body but what are the other typical measurements.

Thanks,

Rob

My blocks are the height of the sides X 2 1/2" wide X 1 1/8" deep. I use an "L" shaped block that extends under the fretboard. I know there are a number of other builders who make their blocks wider and deeper than I do. I'm sure you'll get some other responses.

Josh

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
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House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
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2 3/4" x 1 3/8"...

2 3/4 X 5/8 on ukuleles

Bob

Need more info. What are you building?

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Jason Moe
LaCrosse WI 54601

I'm building a curly maple/Appalachian top Nick Lucas. The neck will also be Maple, 14 fret clear of body.

Most of the blueprints I have have neck blocks that average out to 2 3/4" x 1 3/8". That block size worked in the OO nl I'm working on right now. Just be sure your truss rod is long enough to clear the block, or at least that your wrench is long enough to adjust it....

That is a consideration on any build and especially relevant on a 12 fret, I had to make a custom wrench for one and now I check before I get too far with the neck construction. Like the old saying measure twice and cut once.

As for the depth of the block make sure it is thick enough to cut the dovetail of mortice and leave enough wood for strength. For cutaway guitars the my block is narrower than a non cutaway, I mark the center and then trim the cutaway side to match the side shape.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

i usually go wider and sometimes use a foot as well -really depends upon the guitar though. whatever the design make sure you have room for fasteners (if you are going bolt on that is), c'bores, washers, as well as wrench access should be figured out in advance otherwise you'll have to resort to "custom" hardware. i've run into problems before in this area specifically with belleville washers. they need a bit of room on the diameter to allow them to flatten out a bit. i had to do some research to find some in stainless steel that were .030 smaller then what came with the hardware kit.

That last part is where I could use some help. What's a safe amount of wood to have left once you've cut the mortice?

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George :-)

really depends upon the guitar imo. i strictly use bolt on m/t. if my tenon is 1" x 1" then i like to have 3/4" all around, if my tenon is 3/4" x 3/4" then i like to have 5/8" all around. hardware is a driver as well though and you need to consider whether you are going to c'bore the bolt heads or not and determine c'bore depth (or not depending). i also like to keep a fairly wide face where the neck heel meets the body and i also radius the upper bout here as well and this will impact overall block width. i like to work in thirds as this just seems natural to me but i'm pretty much a underground fringe builder though so don't necessarily do as i do, as experience and forum opinion will vary greatly.

I make it about 1/2" wider than the neck at the body joint. The glue surface will help flatten any warping or cupping in the sides. Makes sanding that area for the neck joint easier.