Official Luthiers Forum!

Owned and operated by Lance Kragenbrink
It is currently Wed Jul 30, 2025 1:25 am


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Forum rules


Be nice, no cussin and enjoy!




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 31 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:24 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:43 am
Posts: 50
First name: Jacob
Last Name: Schlueter
City: Piketon
State: Ohio
Zip/Postal Code: 45661
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hey everybody,
I am getting ready to do my first hand carved neck and I was wondering what the most universally comfortable neck profile is? I understand there are individual preferences but I need a place to start so I was wondering if you all could give me some advice? Thank you in advance!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:50 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 9:59 pm
Posts: 3622
First name: Dennis
Last Name: Kincheloe
City: Kansas City
State: MO
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Visit your nearest guitar store and see what the big manufacturers are doing.

Otherwise, carve until it feels good :)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:57 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:43 am
Posts: 50
First name: Jacob
Last Name: Schlueter
City: Piketon
State: Ohio
Zip/Postal Code: 45661
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
DennisK wrote:
Visit your nearest guitar store and see what the big manufacturers are doing.

Otherwise, carve until it feels good :)


I know most people like the Taylor profile but some find it a little too thin so I was possibly looking for a compromise.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:50 pm 
Offline
Cocobolo
Cocobolo
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2008 11:27 pm
Posts: 313
Location: McKinney, TX
First name: David
Last Name: Morris
City: McKinney
State: TX
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
For my two cents...

There's no such thing. It's like asking, "What's the most comfortable shoe size?" The size and shape of a player's hand figure heavily into the equation, and one would have to accommodate both men and women. The closest thing anyone could say is to go with an industrial standard, like the thickness of a Taylor or Martin neck. That way, even if it's not the most comfortable for everyone, at least it's what everyone's used to. And that being said, ideally the size and shape of the neck profile should be suited to the player a custom guitar is made for.

IOW, what DennisK said...

_________________
David Morris


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:16 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:43 am
Posts: 50
First name: Jacob
Last Name: Schlueter
City: Piketon
State: Ohio
Zip/Postal Code: 45661
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
dpm99 wrote:
For my two cents...

There's no such thing. It's like asking, "What's the most comfortable shoe size?" The size and shape of a player's hand figure heavily into the equation, and one would have to accommodate both men and women. The closest thing anyone could say is to go with an industrial standard, like the thickness of a Taylor or Martin neck.


I really do understand there is no such thing. I just was wondering if there was something that was a compromise that might accommodate a wider range of people. Because I know there are plenty of people that do not like the Taylor profile and others don't like the Martin profile. Also part of the reason I am asking is so I can finalize some measurements since doing it by hand is hard to learn. I want to have a goal in mind that I can actually to some extent measure. Someday I may be able to do most of it by feeling but today is not that day! :D I have measurements for several profiles but just wanted to get some ideas if anything is possibly a little better than what the "big" companies are doing.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 4:19 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:06 pm
Posts: 2739
Location: Magnolia DE
First name: Brian
Last Name: Howard
City: Magnolia
State: Delaware
Zip/Postal Code: 19962
Country: United States
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
I use an asymmetrical profile, most players find it quite comfortable.

_________________
Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 6:06 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 5:21 am
Posts: 4915
Location: Central PA
First name: john
Last Name: hall
City: Hegins
State: pa
Zip/Postal Code: 17938
Country: usa
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
I use a number of shapes but like Brian I use a slightly asymmetrical shape. If you figure out how thick you like your neck then sand the final shape using your left hand , you should find something you like.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:02 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 12:42 pm
Posts: 2360
Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
First name: Fred
Last Name: Tellier
City: Windsor
State: Ontario
Zip/Postal Code: N8T2C6
Country: Canada
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Find a shape you find comfortable and copy it, the thickness is probably more important to the feel than the actual shape. Luthier Suppliers has great templates if you are not interested in making your own.

Fred

_________________
Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:35 am 
Offline
Koa
Koa
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 6:35 am
Posts: 671
Location: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
Interesting you describe the Taylor as being too thin. at .840" at the 1st, its thicker than many of the custom builders including Ryan and Olson. Perhaps its not its thickness, but the lack of shoulder?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:17 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:43 am
Posts: 50
First name: Jacob
Last Name: Schlueter
City: Piketon
State: Ohio
Zip/Postal Code: 45661
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
dberkowitz wrote:
Interesting you describe the Taylor as being too thin. at .840" at the 1st, its thicker than many of the custom builders including Ryan and Olson. Perhaps its not its thickness, but the lack of shoulder?


I have just heard a few people say that. Personally I have no issue with it.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 8:44 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
User avatar

Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:12 pm
Posts: 3308
First name: Bryan
Last Name: Bear
City: St. Louis
State: Mo
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Jschlueter wrote:
. . .Someday I may be able to do most of it by feeling but today is not that day! :D . . .


You might be surprise yourself. Grab a chunk of 2x4 and rought it to neck dimensions including fretboard and carve away. Stop when it feels comfortable for you. You may just find it to be easier than you think.

If possible, carve the neck to the comfort of the owner. I once made a guitar for my brother and carved the neck while we were on vacation together. He gave me feedback through the whole process. It ended up being much fatter than I would have liked and slightly asymmetrical but it is what he wanted. I'm sure I am the only one who has ever noticed the asymmetry.

_________________
Bryan Bear PMoMC

Take care of your feet, and your feet will take care of you.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 9:31 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
Posts: 1624
Location: United States
First name: Larry
Last Name: Hawes
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Bryan Bear wrote:
You might be surprise yourself. ... You may just find it to be easier than you think.


I carved my first neck not too long ago and was quite intimidated by the process - until I started. It was much easier than I thought, much more pleasurable than I thought, and came out much better than I thought it might. If you have another guitar around it's quite easy to carve a profile for that guitar and just start whittling until you get there, or even get close then let it sit for a day and come back - "You might suprise yourself."

_________________
Thank You and Best To All


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 9:53 am 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:31 am
Posts: 904
Location: Candler, NC United States
I think folks tend to like what they're used to. Play an old v-carved Martin for a while, and one's hands will gradually adapt. Switch to a Taylor, and it will feel way too thin. Play that for a while, go back to the v-carve, and it'll feel big and awkward. Having played many drastically different neck shapes and sizes, I know a few things for certain -- 1) there MUST be a recurve to the shoulder, as much as a 1/16" taper from the bottom of the fingerboard to the top. Nothing causes me to put an otherwise well-made guitar down faster than a sharp ledge at the fingerboard edge. I can name several high-end builders who are guilty of this. 2) almost everybody's first neck is way too fat. Rough carve the neck, then fret and attach your fingerboard. You have a much better sense of neck proportions with the board included. 3) unless you're building for someone with small hands, keep your nut width at least 1 23/32", preferably 1 3/4". Anything narrower leads to hand fatigue (for me, anyway).

Hope this is helpful. Cheers.

Ken

_________________
Mountain Song Guitars www.mountainsongguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 9:55 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:21 pm
Posts: 3445
Location: Alexandria MN
Whatever shape you use be sure to blend the curve into the fretboard so there is not a sharp transition. That makes a big difference in feel. Whoops Ken beat me to it.

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 1:40 pm 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 6262
Location: Virginia
Ken Jones wrote:
I think folks tend to like what they're used to. Play an old v-carved Martin for a while, and one's hands will gradually adapt. Switch to a Taylor, and it will feel way too thin. Play that for a while, go back to the v-carve, and it'll feel big and awkward. Having played many drastically different neck shapes and sizes, I know a few things for certain -- 1) there MUST be a recurve to the shoulder, as much as a 1/16" taper from the bottom of the fingerboard to the top. Nothing causes me to put an otherwise well-made guitar down faster than a sharp ledge at the fingerboard edge. I can name several high-end builders who are guilty of this. 2) almost everybody's first neck is way too fat. Rough carve the neck, then fret and attach your fingerboard. You have a much better sense of neck proportions with the board included. 3) unless you're building for someone with small hands, keep your nut width at least 1 23/32", preferably 1 3/4". Anything narrower leads to hand fatigue (for me, anyway).

Hope this is helpful. Cheers.

Ken


I have two hard V shaped guitars. One is a parlor guitar the other an electric. They are great for playing scales and soloing but not so great with chords and rhythm. But I totally agree you can get used to anything.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 6:29 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:43 am
Posts: 50
First name: Jacob
Last Name: Schlueter
City: Piketon
State: Ohio
Zip/Postal Code: 45661
Country: United States
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks everyone for the advice! It has been very helpful.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 9:34 am 
Offline
Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3272
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
Ken Jones wrote:
I think folks tend to like what they're used to. Play an old v-carved Martin for a while, and one's hands will gradually adapt. Switch to a Taylor, and it will feel way too thin. Play that for a while, go back to the v-carve, and it'll feel big and awkward. Having played many drastically different neck shapes and sizes, I know a few things for certain -- 1) there MUST be a recurve to the shoulder, as much as a 1/16" taper from the bottom of the fingerboard to the top. Nothing causes me to put an otherwise well-made guitar down faster than a sharp ledge at the fingerboard edge. I can name several high-end builders who are guilty of this. 2) almost everybody's first neck is way too fat. Rough carve the neck, then fret and attach your fingerboard. You have a much better sense of neck proportions with the board included. 3) unless you're building for someone with small hands, keep your nut width at least 1 23/32", preferably 1 3/4". Anything narrower leads to hand fatigue (for me, anyway).

Hope this is helpful. Cheers.

Ken


Ken, are you talking about blending the neck curve into the bottom edge of the fingerboard, or are you talking about tapering the top edge of the fingerboard back to prevent a sharp 90 degree angle at the top corner?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 1:08 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
Posts: 1624
Location: United States
First name: Larry
Last Name: Hawes
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Barry Daniels wrote:
Ken Jones wrote:
I think folks tend to like what they're used to. Play an old v-carved Martin for a while, and one's hands will gradually adapt. Switch to a Taylor, and it will feel way too thin. Play that for a while, go back to the v-carve, and it'll feel big and awkward. Having played many drastically different neck shapes and sizes, I know a few things for certain -- 1) there MUST be a recurve to the shoulder, as much as a 1/16" taper from the bottom of the fingerboard to the top. Nothing causes me to put an otherwise well-made guitar down faster than a sharp ledge at the fingerboard edge. I can name several high-end builders who are guilty of this. 2) almost everybody's first neck is way too fat. Rough carve the neck, then fret and attach your fingerboard. You have a much better sense of neck proportions with the board included. 3) unless you're building for someone with small hands, keep your nut width at least 1 23/32", preferably 1 3/4". Anything narrower leads to hand fatigue (for me, anyway).

Hope this is helpful. Cheers.

Ken


Ken, are you talking about blending the neck curve into the bottom edge of the fingerboard, or are you talking about tapering the top edge of the fingerboard back to prevent a sharp 90 degree angle at the top corner?


Good question. I was thinking the former but now I'm not so sure. I'm curious as well.

_________________
Thank You and Best To All


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 2:39 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:31 am
Posts: 904
Location: Candler, NC United States
The latter. The former is a given in my book.

_________________
Mountain Song Guitars www.mountainsongguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 2:51 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:36 am
Posts: 7473
Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
Ken, I've been leaving my boards straight on the side, about how much of a taper are you talking about?

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 5:32 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
Posts: 1624
Location: United States
First name: Larry
Last Name: Hawes
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Ken Jones wrote:
The latter. The former is a given in my book.


Interesting. Don't you then need to add extra width to the nut/fretboard to avoid the strings from 'falling off' that rounded edge?

_________________
Thank You and Best To All


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 5:34 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
Posts: 1624
Location: United States
First name: Larry
Last Name: Hawes
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
SteveSmith wrote:
Ken, I've been leaving my boards straight on the side, about how much of a taper are you talking about?


Ken Jones wrote:
... there MUST be a recurve to the shoulder, as much as a 1/16" taper from the bottom of the fingerboard to the top.


Apparently it's about 1/16" inch.

_________________
Thank You and Best To All


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 5:46 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 3:31 am
Posts: 904
Location: Candler, NC United States
LarryH wrote:
Ken Jones wrote:
The latter. The former is a given in my book.


Interesting. Don't you then need to add extra width to the nut/fretboard to avoid the strings from 'falling off' that rounded edge?

Yes, if you do taper it bottom to top, then you would need some extra meat there. I guess what I really don't like is when it doesn't go at least vertical at the fingerboard, then it causes an abrupt and uncomfortable ledge. Some of the old v-carve Martins (and old '50's Tele's) have a strong recurve, like 1/16" or more from bottom of the fretboard to top.

_________________
Mountain Song Guitars www.mountainsongguitars.com


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 6:35 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member

Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:47 pm
Posts: 1624
Location: United States
First name: Larry
Last Name: Hawes
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Ah I'm seeing what you're getting at now. I think I might do that intuitively as I try and soften that 'upper' edge on the fret board and could see how having a 'V' that continued up to the top of the fret board could be uncomfortable. Thanks for taking the time to clarify.

_________________
Thank You and Best To All


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2013 9:03 pm 
Offline
Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:36 am
Posts: 7473
Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
LarryH wrote:
SteveSmith wrote:
Ken, I've been leaving my boards straight on the side, about how much of a taper are you talking about?


Ken Jones wrote:
... there MUST be a recurve to the shoulder, as much as a 1/16" taper from the bottom of the fingerboard to the top.


Apparently it's about 1/16" inch.


:oops: missed that part. I've been making mine straight with slightly rounded corner to soften the edge. I'll try the recurve on my next one.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 31 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
phpBB customization services by 2by2host.com