Official Luthiers Forum!

I am curious. For those of you who use your router table and a round over or round under bit to create your neck profile, what bit do you use?

thanks
Richard

2 1\2 inch round over bit

_________________
MK5acoustics.com

I'd caution anyone contemplating using a router bit this big. You really have to fixture your
stock very firmly and take light cuts for safety. I used to use big roundover bits like this on
a shaper for furniture making, and it was easily the most dangerous power tool in the shop
because of the large exposed cutting edges and ease of a dangerous catch throwing the workpiece.

I use a Microplane rotary bit and drill to rough shape necks:

http://www.amazon.com/Microplane-Rotary-Shaper-2-30041/dp/B000CCYYVM/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0

But you have to have a good eye and a light touch or it'll eat way too much stock away...

_________________
Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

make small cuts or you can very easily have tear outs, don't ask me how I know, with a bit this large...other than that use caution and it works very well, also leave enough heel material so the bit doesn't cut to the edge..as always use common sense work safely and turn the router down to the lowest setting for a bit this large...I think a 2 1/4 might be a better size..

_________________
MK5acoustics.com

I had a cove bit that big launch from the router like a helicopter. The force was such that the piece of stock went up with it while I was still holding it. The bit walked the stock and just nicked (to the bone) a finger. It hit the side of my finger so I had no serious damage, just a scare.

_________________
http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

Clamp a piece of mahogany that will extend your heel. that way you will not get any tear out - bust through.

_________________
Ken

actually the only tear out I had was at the headstock end...I was making too large of a cut..on the heel the profile has to be a little larger then the bit profile or the bit changes the shape by routing over the edge ...if that makes any sense??? like anything there is a learning curve , I have it down now where very little shaping is necessary, I cut my blanks right too the final thickness and taper leaving the headstock and the heel squared up to the same size to rout..., I have made 5 necks so far using this method and tore up two in the process that darned learning curve!!!!!

_________________
MK5acoustics.com

I am surprised that not too many seem to be doing it this way, I got the idea off this forum a long time ago..here are a couple better pics of one of the first ones I did before tapering...still not the best pics,

_________________
MK5acoustics.com

dang i'd sure hate to get a sleeve caught in one of those big boys....

On necks with stacked heels and scarfed headstocks, I have been routing the neck profile with the piece laid flat prior to gluing on the heel and headstock. Many people make Fender Style electric necks this way since the blank is flat. I find it much safer since you can use a 3/4" or 1" roundover bit. You just need to layout your start and stop points carefully. Glen

Really not that bad I use big clamps at both ends which.keeps.my hands.at least 10 to 12 away at all times, always work safe ! Know your equipment

_________________
MK5acoustics.com

Is that a 1/2" shank on the bit?
I have not found a large round-over bit for my dinky 1/4" collet.
If it's a 1/4" shank, I'd like to know where to get one.
DZ

_________________
wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

I'd be surprised if you found a large roundover bit with a 1/4" shank. Scary stuff at least for me.

This is the one I got from Woodcraft

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/202101 ... shank.aspx

It worked great.

i just thought of something, those giant bits would probably make killer neck profile scrapers, if hand-held and sharpened. hmmm maybe i'll look for a used one

You guys are a lot braver than I. This is one of my favorite parts of building guitars, I use a farriers rasp. Clinton