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I'm using a slotted headstock for the 00 I'm building (first time I've used one). It's similar to a Martin style. I need to angle the bottom of the slots to allow clearance for strings once it's strung up.

Any tips anyone would mind sharing on how you approach this? I guess I should glue the fretboard in place, fit the nut, temporarily install the tuners in the two "E" postions, and connect strings to the tuners so I know how far to angle the slots?

What tools do you use? I have a small, round, tapered rasp that removes wood quickly. It's probably 1/4" diameter max so wouldn't cut a 1/2" wide slot which is what I think I've seen in pics (just a guess on dimensions from pictures).

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Before I had the mill I used a 1/2 inch rat tail rasp. I liked to drill the holes first then cut the slot. Once that slot was cut I would attack the ramp with my file. Took about 10 min. I would place the tuner in the lower one and check the line to the back of the nut. As long as I was clear by 1/16 I would thing it was good enough.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

John, the slots are finished.......just need to cut the taper at the bottom of the slots (see below).

Any suggestions what 1/2" diameter rasp to get and where to find it? Is this something you can pick up at Lowes or Home Depot?

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Slip the tuners in place and a dummy nut the thickness of your fretboard plus frets and you can use a straight edge or ruler to tell you when you have enough clearance

I use a1/4in round rasp for that. I wouldn't recommend gluing the fb down because you may need that space to rasp on the proper angle. It's not to hard to just make some quick measurements and or just eyeball it imo.

1/2 in round rasp I got mine at MSC .
It does a nice job of making that ramp.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Looks great Darryl. Since you already have rectangular slots, rectangular ramps look very stylish. I have yet to do one though. I think the rasp I use for concave ramps is a 5/8 rat tail. 00 with a slot head will look great.

I use a long 3/8 in tapered round bastard file purchased at the local HF their cheap ,bought 2 and used the second one broken in 2 to make smaller files to get in tight corners. Also , have a small 1/2in round microplane from woodcraft which helps too. But for SS gtr ,like the square retro look, yours looks good.

I use a 1/2 tapered round bastard file and then dowels with sandpaper starting at 80 grit.

Rectangular ramps are not difficult, and I do like their look--used them on my classical. It's a fairly simple task to score and pare them with a nice sharp chisel just inside your layout lines and then finish them with flat sanding sticks. If you prefer rounded ramps, then a half round or rat tail file followed by various grits of sandpaper around a dowel. You can do the job more quickly and evenly with a larger file than your 1/4" tool.
Mine is rat tail--tapered 1/2" to about 5/16".

Todd, if you don't mind me asking, how did you get the corners square?

Very helpful info Todd, thanks.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

I like to use a 1/4-3/8" rasp and file to cut these ramps. Be very careful to stay away from the sides of
your slots. Slipping a little and leaving a groove in those sides looks very amateurish, IMO (yea, you
don't have to ask how I know...the slots on that head got a bit wider than planned to make them
square again...).

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Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain