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Question? I have my radius for the neck and tail block ( I used a chord & segment height) Do you just use a sharp plane? Some simple jig? I have a 6" X 147" horizontal belt sander.

Belt sander.

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Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement.

I use a hand plane to take the thicker edges off, then use a piece of 80 grit taped to a flat surface, rock back and forth.

6" wide belt sander should wok too.

plus 1. 6 x 48 Hand plane works fine also.

Thanks to all: Todd thats exactly how I did the job. I used my Lie Nielsen Model Makers plane instead.

I will usually do it like todd, with a block plan and shave away until it match's my pattern.

But lately i will finish up by hitting it with and appropriately radiused sanding block (the ones one use for fingerboards) I have had great success doing this, and it helps ensure a nice fit, with a perfectly matched radius. It should be noted that you must make sure the radius match's your intended side shape.

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That Todd. Always looking for a reason to show off his stylish bench. How thick is the heel block you use Todd? I've now gone to 1/2 ply and am beveling the top an bottom to the thickness of the linings. It seems hard to have a thin top and not have the tail block witness through.

Cheers,
Danny

Sharp plane and a little time. A few of my favorite tools. For the heel block I laminated a piece of black locust on some honduras mahogany.

Todd,
thanks for all the pictures - really helps the newbies understand how it's done. While I'm tempted to go the sanding belt route, I like to know what my options are. To date have only done Classicals with a pretty flat bottom, and, of course, slots at the tops. Good plywood or laminted tails seems to make sense for steel stings. Thanks, again.
Marty