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I've been googling and googling and it seems there are a few different preferences for when the fret board gets glues on. I have watched a bunch of videos but can't seem to find any clear order in which to do same.

Do you shape the neck then glue on the FB? Do you taper the FB then glue it on a rough neck, then trim the neck to the FB? Do you glue the FB on then taper the neck with the FB attached? Elementary I'm sure but am lost at this moment.

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My current process is
- slot fretboard
- taper fretboard
- bind fretboard (if binding)and clean fretslots of any glue before it hardens
- radius fretboard
- inlay position markers
- accurately position fretboard on neck and drill position pins (usually at 1st and 12th fret)
- install frets ( I use a fret press and fish glue)
- clamp fretboard on blocks to straighten
- glue fretboard ( I use epoxy) to rough shaped neck.
- taper neck to fretboard shape.

Still not perfect, but works well for me.

Excellent Ron, So in your process the tapered fretboard gets applied to the rough neck, then the neck is shaped to the fretboard. Position pins - I've read about them before but this is my first neck so have never used them. I believe they are very small finish nails (wire?) whose holes are drilled through the fret board at a fret slot and later covered by a fret? Used to hold the fret board while gluing?

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Todd, Thank you as always for your help. Do you taper the fret board, then glue,as Ron has described, then shape the neck to match the taper on the fretboard?

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I do pretty much what Todd does. Peghead is shaped and finished, inlays in, Neck is rough tapered, heel contour and cheek contour and taper done, tenon routed, and neck set. Fretboard does not go on until the neck alignment and cheek to body fit is what I want. Here's what they look like before gluing the fretboard. The truss rod slot is good for checking the center line alignment. I have a fretboard surrogate that keys in the truss rod slot and can be clamped for checking neck angle and fit or you can use your fretboard.









Ready to glue.




After gluing the fretboard, shape the neck to final shape and then level the board and fret. When you carve the neck you can stress relieve the wood and a previously level fretboard may not be level anymore


Some great builders fret before gluing the board but they know from experience what's going to happen. For most of us leveling and fretting as the last step is more foolproof. You can also fret to 10 and then support the peghead and add 6lbs of weight to each shoulder and check your dropoff over the body. You can still sand more in if needed before fretting the extension.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

Exactly. Look up 1/32 inch drill bit and 1/32 inch steel rod on eBay. Not finishing nails, not sure what you call they are long steel rods and you cut them to length with a Dremel.

Currently I cut fret slots, taper board, bind fretboard, cut truss rod slot, install truss rod, trim neck blank to approximate shape, glue fretboard, the end

Here's a way to align the board without having pins sticking out.

Cut a fretboard similar to what you are going to use out of Fibercore or MDF so it's flat. Drill holes and install 1/8" drill bushings where you want your locating pins. Put two truss rod slot locating pins in the centerline. Mark the centerline accurately on each end.



Locate it on your neck and drill the holes.



Clamp your fretboard to the other side of the jig and make sure the centerlines are right on and it's flush with the nut end. Drill your holes.



Put 1/8" wooden pins in the holes and it'll lock right in. I usually glue them into the neck holes so they can't move before gluing the board. I've been using this system for 6 or 7 years and it works well. The pins have to fit snugly.
These are old pictures and I don't use the stop at the nut end anymore and got rid of the side supports. I just get the nut flush with the end and align the centerlines at each end and clamp with spring clamps before drilling.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

So very very helpful. I really appreciate all the insight and ideas.

First neck is pretty humbling I have to say but finally got the tenon cut and a pretty good fit at the neck block. Neck angle looks good, just need to floss a bit and it should be good to go.

I'm going to use bolts and inserts from LMI for the neck attachment and will drill those holes before gluing the neck as it look like it will be a lot easier to get to the tenon with a hand drill and the fretboard off.

Again, thanks very much for the help.

_________________
Thank You and Best To All

I taper the neck to pretty much final width, just a hair over. Rough carve the profile, final carve the heel, set the angle and attach it to the guitar, hopefully never to be removed again.

Then slot and taper and bind the fingerboard, and glue it on. Level and/or radius the fingerboard, taking out any neck/body joint hump in the process, install any shell inlays (I do this late in, so the level/radius step doesn't fluff shell dust everywhere), then final carve the neck now that I can feel the full profile of it to finetune the shape. Then install frets, and after a few days/weeks with strings on, level the frets.