Official Luthiers Forum!

I want to buy a replacement blade for my 14" Jet band saw. They come as hook, skip and regular. I have a skip tooth on a 10" band saw, and like how well that cuts through any wood or mdf I cut. But the guy at Woodworker's Source recommended the regular blade. ( I currently have a 3/8" regular on it. ) It has more teeth and produces a smaller kerf, but I feel like it takes a lot longer to cut through, and then you can get some burning.
I do not plan to get into resawing (although I did just pick up a couple of perfectly quartered Fir boards that I'll resaw), so I cut necks (scarf, rough shaping), profile tops, backs and sides, cut plywood and MDF for jigs.
What blade width and style would you recommend for my use?

Thanks as always for the tips and help! Beth

there is no one perfect blade to do every job. You need to educate your self on blades and band saw set up. http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/how_to_choose.html This link may help you. Different materials and thickness need different cutting requirements . You may not need 10 different blades but do know the end result will be because of the blade used and band saw set up.
I use blades from 1/4 inch and 20 tpi to 1 in by 1 2/3rd tpi.
This should help you get the one you need.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

For light resawing, no scroll work, and if changing blades is a hassle (as it is on many 14" saws), a 3/8" is a good ~all-purpose choice. I like bimetal -- it's more $ but stays sharp a very long time. The Lenox Diemaster 2 is great -- http://www.spectrumsupply.com/diemaster2.aspx
Here's a long thread on blades -- http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread. ... saw-blades!

_________________
David Malicky

Of course, John is correct. Bandsaw blades can be a confusing, even daunting issue because of the cost. Less so with 14" saws since they don't use the bigger blades. But, there is a guy who is considered the guru of bandsaws (especially the 14") that you need to read up on. Sorry guys!! Been up since 4am directing a race today, so his name is slipping my mind. Someone will fill that in.

Iturra? try this 904 642 2802, Email KALLL@comcast.net

Website is illusive

Mike

Trust your own experience. Stick with the skip tooth blades.

Kevin Looker

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Let me rephrase my answer.

If you're happy with a skip tooth blade, I don't think your going to find something you like better.

I've tried most blades type that are designed for woodworking and prefer a skip. This does not include resawing where I prefer a carbide tipped Woodmaster CT - not sure on the specific blade designations of that blade.

Kevin Looker

_________________
I'm not a luthier.
I'm just a guy who builds guitars in his basement.
It's better than playing golf.

Filippo,I ALWAYS assume my assumptions are incorrect in lutherie I make jigs or cauls that use some MDF occasionally, and that's all the cutting of it I do. Most jigs I use plywood for. I'm sure my blade is dull, and that's why it's slower and sometimes burns.

The blade on the Jet is the one it came with, and it's my first bandsaw, so I had no frame of reference for how it should cut or what it feels like to use. Before asking this question here, I had done some reading that suggested that regular toothed, higher TPI blades cut more slowly, but leave fewer marks and a finer kerf vs skip tooth. I don't remember what I read about hook tooth, just that it didn't seem a necessary application for me. I also am aware that other kinds of saw blades come in "crosscut" and "rip cut" type styles and wasn't able to find anything about that in relation to band saw blades (maybe their speed makes that a moot point). Anyway, I read just enough to know that I wanted to get some advice from others who are using their bandsaws similarly to my needs.

I do like the skip tooth on the little band saw, so I'll probably go with that since I'm not resawing.

Thanks for all the help. I'll have to give Wud's blades a try.

I've pretty much gotten to the point where I keep a 1/2" 3tpi blade on my 15" saw 90% of the time. A fresh blade leaves a pretty clean cut and accurate sawing leaves less waste than a finer but poorer cut. Choose your poison there. In addition, I'll use a 1/4 6 tpi and a 1/8" blade that I've had so long that I forget the tpi count, buts fairly fine. The 1/8" blade is best for very thing woods. The 1/4" is good for medium thickness and relatively tight curves, and the 1/2" is good for just about everything else, even resawing.

I used to go up to 3/4" 4tpi but they put too much strain on my saw and cut more slowly.

_________________
Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/

Woodmaster CT for anything involving a straight line, hands down.

I've got a 14"Rigid saw with a riser block which uses a 105" blade. I use Timberwolf blades almost exclusively, and I have several for different purposes. I'd recommend the 1/2" with 6 or 8 TPI for general use, I also have a 1/4" for cutting out solid bodies and a 5/8" 3 TPI for resaw. The TPI you should use depends on the thickness of the wood, 3 teeth in the cut is the rule of thumb. As has been stated before, more teeth is generally a smoother cut.

_________________
A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

speaking of Iturra. I recently upgraded my spring and bearings - I purchased 3 of his Woodslicer (Bladerunner, I think he calls them) blades, and I am resawing wood that would have taken me forever with my Timberwolf blades. I am sure my careful tuneup on the band saw helped a lot - but the blade cuts everything like butter, and as thin as I want ! After the cut I can skip the Safe-t-plane, and go right to sanding my backs and sides smooth with the ROS. Just thought I would share.
I have a 14" 3/4 hp Delta.

_________________
It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX