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I just received initial specs for a solidbody 8 string, and they include a maple neck with birdseye fretboard. I'm comfortable with everything else requested for the design, but worry about using maple as a fretboard material for the same reason Leo Fender had problems... discoloration over time. The best solution I've heard of is finishing the surface with tru-oil, which I'm not opposed to, but I want to feel absolutely confident that it will hold up well. To make things more interesting, it is an artist model that is part of an endorsement deal. The band plays melodic death metal, and this will be the primary stage guitar. The neck itself will be made from laminated quartersawn maple. Two double acting truss rods (fabricated in house and similar to PRS) will lend additional stability, which is all the more essential since the only finish will be oil to maximize smoothness and speed.

What advise do you have to offer? I have informed the client that use of something dense, tropical, oily, and stable would be advisable. He's open to entertaining the possibility of using another wood type, but if I can feel confident that maple will work and still look great after a few years of touring then I will use it in the design.

I have used medium CA to re-finish maple fretrboards and it has worked and held up well. I would not really have a problem doing it on a new build, but given the hard road use and endorsements I may consider something else. Conversion Varnish would most likely be my first choice simply because I have a lot of experience with it. I would also consider System 3's Mirror coat, though it may be a bit difficult to get it to stay up on the radius of the board while it cures. But it is tough to beat epoxy for durability. A uv cured polyester would be another option as well, I just don't know if the stuff you get to do yourself is as tough as the industrial coated products I get done in it. I don't think any drying oil type finish like tru oil would make my list of possibilities to honest, I just don't see it holding up over time, especially on lighter woods, based on my experiences making wooden counter tops.

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

Tru oil has some good qualities, but I think it would wear through quickly.

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Mike Lindstrom

I used super thin CA to finish a maple fretboard on an old beater I rebuilt. ~8 years later it is doing fine with no discoloration. I chose super thin for maximum penetration.

You might try soaking the fingerboard with vinegar first to retard curing and allow maximum penetration. Test on scrap of course.

TruOil will work great if you want it to look "vintage" in a couple of months It's not nearly hard or tough enough for a fretboard that gets a lot of use. Thin CA would be a reasonable choice, as would epoxy.

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A man hears what he wants to hear, and disreguards the rest. Paul Simon

I have used thin CA as a finish for maple necks and for fingerboards of all types - especially for fretless basses. When buffed out - it looks as nice as lacquer. It is a lot of work using CA as a finish, but it is hard, and would protect the fingerboard for a long time.
Dan Erlewine has written about using CA as a finish, if you care to search for his methods.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince