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Where can i find an easy to understand, well illustrated, article on installing frets? I've just been using the old fashion method ,POUND! HAMMER! SAW! POUND! ETC. (not nec. in that order). I would like to adopt a good routine for each instrument I build. so far I just haven't come to a method that gets good results. I know I need some special tools but I can't spend a lot of money, I don't build for resale initially but I am accumilating dulcimers and mandolins that need to go to caring hands. thanks jd

This isn't a "Smart Alec" answer, but check the archives. There are some really good discussions of fretting in there. Some involving posts by Rick Turner and Grumpy that were very revealing. It's not pound with a hammer, it's more like tap with a hammer. If you have to pound the slots are wrong and that will lead to other problems. Pressing is also an option.

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Waddy

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I over-radius the frets to make sure the edge sits in correctly. First I tap the edge in, then start giving a firm but not too hard of a tap. Work your way into the center. I go back and re-check (run my fingernail across the fret) to make sure it has fully seated... if not then tap some more to get it in.

I've read pressing will yield a more consistent result that will require less final leveling, but I do not have a fret press. You can press the frets on a new instrument but for acoustic guitars, esp. refretting you have to hammer the last few that's over the body... no way you're going to fit an acoustic guitar over a fret press, unless you invest over $3-400 on the Stewmac Jaws system.

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Fretting isn't that hard. The key to a good fret job is fretboard prep. Also if you decide to press or hammer , I have done both and still go back to hammer.
The other part is fretting on or off the neck. So you can see there are number of ways to do this. , The pitfalls of the process is the control of the slots and radius. I over radius the wire a bit from the fretboard radius.
If hammer fretting you want to support the board under the slot to avoid bouncing. Also I like to use fish glue , as this will lube the slot when fretting and the water will help swell the wood to bite into the barbs on the fretwire.
If you press fret you need to be very precise on the radius matching your press cawl. After the frets are in allow some time for the glue to set and then nip off the excess. Most of us have a modified nipper for this job so we cut pretty flush to the ends. The clean up and pre dress the frets.
Binding will be similar but you have to be careful not to loosen the bindings and to remove the fret tangs in the binding area. Again it is all about prep. One side note is when you are selecting the fretwire , use the proper wire for the slot created. I will use a tang width from .0185 to .0205 for a standard martin board. Heavier tangs for a non adjustable fretwire. If you are compression fretting for a neck with an non adjustable rod that is a different technique than one with an adjustable rod.

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John Hall
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