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hi. i'm getting close to starting on my first kerfing and i have some questions.

on one of john hall's videos he keeps the kerfing away from the neck and tail block to prevent a buzz. however from photos i've seen many other builders but their kerfing right up to the blocks. thinking about it i can't see why there would be a buzz but i have very little idea what i and doing so i am sure i am missing something. what do you do and why?

also i've seen some folks use different types of kerfing for the top and bottom. what are the theories on that?

many thanks!

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Patch: If you use reversed linings and during the building process you get a break at one of the thin sections between blocks you can get a buzz or rattle. DAMHIKT. Just inspect the glued linings closely before closing the box and give the top or back,whichever you glue on first,a few good raps before gluing the other panel.
Tom

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Patch,
Here is a quick lining 101, others please correct this if there are any mistakes.
Kerfing= verb, what you are doing when you make saw kerfs
Lining= noun, stuff you line your sides with to add glue surface and side stiffness.
Your question may have to do with classicals? The lining and the tentalones are different due to building process in a plantilla.
Tentalones: Separate little blocks glued in place

Standard linings-kerfs to the inside, usually triangle shaped. Pros- easy to make and install. Solid part against sides adds some material if the bindings are going to go deeper then the sides. Cons- They don't always lay super flat, so the pro of extra material for bindings has some holes in it, they are seen on cheap guits, so they don't add any curb appeal. Kerfs to the inside of the box do not add any stiffness to the sides.

Reverse kerf: Kerfs glue to the sides, adds stiffness by making a small torsion box. Does not add material for binding, if the binding channel is so deep as to go into the kerfing, there is possible glue mess on the inside when gluing the binding. The solid side to the inside of the box sometimes looks faceted especially at the center bout, where you can see it. To solve this the thickness after the kerf needs to be pretty thin making them a bit fragile to work with.

Solid: Adds stiffness and glue surface. Cons: Hard to make, Most wood is bending pretty easily at about .080 or so, so to make a 1/4" lining you need to glue up 3 slices of pre-bent material in a form, then the visible edge has to be cleaned up, which is bent now, so it gets a bit trickier.

Fox lining: Charles bends these in the bender to get them started. Has the advantages of all of the above, adds material to the sides for binding, becomes a torsion box for stiffness, looks good in the box. They are a bit time consuming to make, but not too bad, easier then solid. To see a picture about 2/3rds down on the page: http://www.frets.com/fretspages/feature ... fox02.html

AST A4 lining, must be very easy to install and lay flat, how ever I don't think they will add the stiffness that reverse kerf linings will. http://www.advancedshelltech.com/Produc ... front.html

Please add to or correct this list, hope it helps.
Rob

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Patch - to add to the great info comfyfoot provided, another advantage to solid linings, which I plan to try with my next build, is that CA glue (cyanoacrylate) can be used to attach your bindings without the fear of it wicking into the box and making a mess. That can be a problem when using kerfed linings.

BTW - although some here still have a personal aversion to using "kerfing" as a noun, it is a perfectly acceptable synonym for kerfed lining. All the major lutherie suppliers use it, so don't feel bad.

Be careful of using CA ,as some woods will allow the CA to wick into it and go to the outside. The sad thing is it will show up when staining or doing finish. Mahogany is a bugger for this .

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

Good point, John. I'm guessing sealing the routed channel, and the top and sides adjacent to the channel, with shellac before installing the bindings would mitigate that, but I haven't done it myself so can't say for sure.

Me too.

On an unrelated note, an ordinance recently passed here makes mine an unsiding neighborhood. Fortunately, my house is brick.

thank you all for the info and grammar help!! this place is great!

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If you have wood touching wood , be sure they are securely glued. This is where you can get the buzzing and since kerfing is there for glue surface the space between the blocks assure no buzzing from that.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I thought the kerfs in the kerfing eliminating the need to form the solid linings into the shape of the guitar. Incidentally, I glue my kerfing onto the neck block as well. I haven't noticed any buzzing, but I have noticed that the wood creaks around the kerfing/brace/side interface if underthings not secure.

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