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Hello, I have this sprayed guitar. Dry sanded with P800 gold sandpaper. Graduated to P1000 with wet or dry sandpaper. Started to buff with menzerna medium butterscotch pre polish which is supposed to work after 800 paper.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_s ... ounds.html
nothing happens. Scratches are all there. I ordered the brown one. Will I be luckier? I don't know. It looks like people use the same grade of menzerna polish with much success, unlike myself. Mistery.

Probably scratches from the 800 dry, sand more with the 1000 then go to 1200 then 1500. I do a little test buff with Menzerna brown on a small area of the back to see if the scratches are mostly gone, if not sand again with the 1500 and test buff again. I find that by doing this I am getting a good result. I use Joest brand disks on a random orbit sander with vac attached right up to the buffing.

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Also make sure your wheel is properly charged... I found sometimes a lack of result is due to an undercharged wheel... as I polish nuts and frets with them and sand to around p1000. You should also not expect to get a very shiny result with medium, after all it is medium. I had the same issue polishing up a poly guitar after some work done to it... on medium it still showed scratch, but after switching to fine it became mirror smooth. If you are polishing poly or urethanes you can bump up the speed a bit (1500 RPM on a 12" wheel) and get a better polish. Don't try that with lacquer unless you want to burn through them. Poly seems more resistant to burning through.

So hit it with fine after the medium and see how it goes...

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

Todd: I am often in doubt if you talk the same system. When you say 400, do you actually mean P400? Because that for me is a very coarse sandpaper. Also, if I get a dull surface with P800 grit, what is the point of sanding 400?

Fred: your reply makes sense. I think I will try to follow it. Although, I still have a doubt, since I saw Erlewine's video on guitar finishing where he sands with P800, then go to P1000 and start buffing with a medium compound.

Tai Fu: I also had this doubt that my wheel was not properly charged. But other than holding the bar in contact for a few seconds to the wheel, what else should I do to properly charge it? By the way, I fogot to mention it: it is lacquer. I do not expect to see a shiny result with medium compound. That was not the problem. The problem is that I still have scratches that I cannot remove with the medium compound (suggested by Erlewine).

Thanks anyway for the suggestions.

How new is your wheel? I had this problem when I first got the wheels, and concluded it was an improperly charged wheel. Stewmac recommends that you charge the wheel, buff a piece of scrap wood, rake it, cut away any stray hairs, charge it again, buff the scrap wood again, rake it, etc. until its smooth. I rake mines with a plastic hair comb. After a while of using the wheel (and thinking it sucked) it magically started working much better.

I think you really need to charge it fairly often at first...

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

I see. I missed that information from stewmac. The wheel is actually new. I will try this strategy and see if it works. Let's see what happens. Thanks.