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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 10:54 am 
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First name: Maks
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Check out these pictures, let me know if you notice anything :)
This will be a Doolin style double cutaway BTW
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:01 am 
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Um....you broke the first law of mirrordynamics?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:05 am 
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The INSIDE of that back looks REALLY cool !!!!


I cut it twice, and its still too short !!!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:06 am 
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Is there a prize for the right answer? Okay, I'm guessing I am looking at the current INSIDE of the back--which you initially planned to be the outside. Does the center strip go all the way through? Or will it be a highly decorative feature of the inside of the box? It's a real showy set of wood. I think you need to figure out a way to go ahead and use it. Just think of the stories you can tell about it in the future.

Man, you have no idea how many times I've come close to doing this--and not just with guitars.

Patrick


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:52 am 
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Seems like you guys got it :)

You ARE looking on the INSIDE of the back, which was suppose to be the outside, with a near perfect bookmatch! [headinwall] Now I have to check how it will look the other way around, which does not have that nice of a match as compared to this side, but with the center strip in, that gives a little bit of a leeway.

And I'm still deffinately using this piece of wood, can't pass it up. The strip is not all the way through, maybe a third of the way.

Man [headinwall] I used the template on the top, then without thinking traced it on the back. Didn't check anything, just went straight to the bandsaw. I was posting some pix and realized what I have done! gaah laughing6-hehe

I hope I can still succesfully use the piece.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 1:43 pm 
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I see nothing wrong at all!

If its a 2 dimensional guitar!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:25 pm 
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I face this issue each time I cut a harp guitar top and back. Measure twice does not cut it. I check myself over and over before I put metal to wood.

I know how u feel.

Mike


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:41 pm 
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save it, and use on your next left handed guitar ...


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:49 pm 
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Let's see the other side of the back first


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 3:03 pm 
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I don't see anything wrong ... a top for a righty and a back for a lefty!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 3:04 pm 
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Rick Cowan wrote:
I don't see anything wrong ... a top for a righty and a back for a lefty!



Except that I need this back for THIS top :D


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 3:05 pm 
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Not exactly the same thing, but that is how I learned how to make a 13 frets-to-the-body guitar.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 5:15 pm 
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This is definantly in the running for doofus move of the month , or is that why you posted here , to avoid the award laughing6-hehe

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 5:25 pm 
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WudWerkr wrote:
This is definantly in the running for doofus move of the month , or is that why you posted here , to avoid the award laughing6-hehe

You got me Wud! laughing6-hehe


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 6:16 pm 
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Just flip it over. The nice decorative center strip inside the guitar will be a conversation piece. It may even become a Lavrov signature item.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 6:39 pm 
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woody b wrote:
Just flip it over. The nice decorative center strip inside the guitar will be a conversation piece. It may even become a Lavrov signature item.

I think that's what I'll do. Except I think the strip will be covered up by a spruce center strip. I kind of doubt the structural integrity if i do without it.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 8:22 pm 
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Well, Maks, I'm going to go against the grain here, but here's what I think: If you're confident about your glued surfaces on that center strip, I bet you could get away with leaving the customary interior cross grain reinforcement strip out of this project. Frankly, I've always wondered about those interior reinforcement strips. Of course, I do them, because that's what we're supposed to do. But we've also got numerous, strong, heavy, cross grain back braces running perpendicular to that joined area. They give HUGE reinforcement to the joint. Sure, cross grain strips will reinforce our mating joints, but they also invite their own cross grain movement failures on either side of the strip (unless humidity is kept at a constant level indefinitely. And if humidity levels are kept constant through an indefinite period, then why do we need those strips? I think they are mostly a redundant feature of traditional construction. I do them, but I have never been convinced they are truly necessary.

Okay, I know I just stuck my head into a hornet's nest. By the time I check back in after breakfast tomorrow, I'm pretty sure a lot of people will counsel me on the error in my judgement. That's cool, too. Perhaps someone will fill in the gaps in my thinking and point out what I am missing here. But until then, I'm just saying..............

Patrick


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 8:58 pm 
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Patrick,

I have never used the cross grain patches. None of my instruments have been around long enough to say they won't have trouble down the line though. I'm not convinced it is necessary with the giant back braces either. In Maks's case though, he would have to decide if the center strip joints are as well prepared as a center seam would be since he will end up with one on each side. . .

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 10:38 am 
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I've seen plenty of Taylors without the spruce strip so it might work. If I route a channel for the new back strip, I'll leave a VERY small amount of the actual coco that's there, and the rest will be the "original" backstrip. I know that the purfling fibers aren't purfectly straight so that seam is not flawless there, but it might very well work out once all braced up. I guess we'll have to wait and see :)

I'll try to re-route today and brace it up, see how it feels


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:19 pm 
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Been there, done that [:Y:] Another one of those "what's the least morale-damaging fix to this situation" problems. You may loose the exact bookmatching, but it'll still be a beautiful back.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 5:54 pm 
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gozierdt wrote:
Been there, done that [:Y:] Another one of those "what's the least morale-damaging fix to this situation" problems. You may loose the exact bookmatching, but it'll still be a beautiful back.

So I just checked and it shouldn't be too bad. As a matter of fact, the back has more visible curl!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:05 pm 
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If your inlay strip doesn't go right through, you can reposition the strip on the other side to improve your bookmatch. If you left a generous amount of excess around the edges, you should have the wiggle room you need.
If it does go all the way through, I might cut it out & re-do the centre joint to get the best match possible. I'm a bit of a symmetry freak, though...
If all else fails, a three piece back could work for ya, if you use a narrow wedge.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:05 pm 
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I dont see what the big deal is. Just use Adobe PhotoShop to flip the back around. laughing6-hehe


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