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Did a tour of the previous posts, but I just wanted to confirm. If I use the very thin clear LMI self-adhesive material, I should just give the surface a quick shot of lightly soaped water, position the pickguard, and then gradually squeegee from the center of the pickguard till the water is gone?

As always, thanks in advance

Steve

I just spray some water.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

I've used plain & "lightly soaped" water. Both work fine, but I like having a few drops of dish soap in the mix. It seems to be a little easier to get the air bubbles out to the edges, instead of becoming trapped.
If you haven't used the clear material before, be careful to not touch the sticky side with a finger. Unless your hands are super clean, you'll leave a visible fingerprint behind.
I use tweezers to (gently) hold the material while I position it.

I also like a couple drops of soap in the water.

I had to pull the 1st one I did as I did not get it exactly where I wanted. The nice thing is when freshly applied they are easy to remove, so don't get too uptight about the process. After doing a few it gets real easy and quick. Cut the material with real good and sharp scissors and it can be applied right from the cutting as the edge will be ok. I screwed one up by tracing the shape mirror image on the backing paper, so I now have a pick guard for my 1st lefty guitar.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

This used to be the bane of my existence. No longer, thanks to good help here on the OLF.
I do mine dry, taping back by the bridge as the hinge, and pulling it tight as I go up toward the fretboard to keep air out.
What the trick is, is using a piece of masking tape stuck to the top side as a "handle". It holds the pickguard for you, it helps keep it taught as you are laying it down, and then peels right off when the guard is in place.
Easier to do than describe.

Steve

P.S.--I found the clear plastic from LMI (at least last year) too thin for the job. StewMac's stuff is superior, though pricier.

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Steve! Brilliant idea using tape as a handle. I will certainly do that from now on.
I guess you'd have to rub the material down firmly while slowly lowering it to the soundboard. Don't think I'm brave enough for that, yet.

I do it like Steve. Just make sure that the top is absolutely dust free before you start.

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Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

One more vote for dry application with a masking tape hinge. It's not easy. Any dust will ruin it, but I don't like water.

If the finish is thick, and or new, water may work. water on an older French polished, or very thin lacquer top, is inviting an eruption of the grain. This can be dramatic.

I'm still working on my repertoire of techniques for removing these tap plates. When they're young, naptha works well. Often heat will remove an older plate. Sometimes, nothing that I've tried will remove the plate without damaging the finish. (I'd welcome any suggestions.)

Recently, I've switched to plain, non-adhesive, Mylar or Acrylic material bonded with LMI white glue. It's a little more trouble to apply, but easier to remove. (Fish glue pulls up finish and wood.)

Good point, one which I hadn't thought about. I've used water on new Varnish finishes, as well as new Polyester finishes, both .003" to .004" thick with no problems, but I could see problems with French Polish, or Waterborne finishes, as well as old Lacquer that may be checked.

I should have said in my first post. I used to really struggle with thin clear pickguards. I built a guitar for a guy who does window tinting. He helped me alot. It wasn't on specific thing, but the entire process. If you're having trouble go find a place that does window tinting and ask for help. Basically they're installing thin "pickguards" on glass all day long, every day.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Thanks for the heads up. This is a french polish finish.

Here's how I like to do it...
http://frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Tec ... uard3.html

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Anderson Guitars
Clearwater,Fl. 33755

I use the Stew Mac clear material, and basically the Frank Ford method using a few drops of detergent in the water. I don't use any 'hinges' of tape as I find that with the water you can slide the material accurately into place, that is the beauty of the water method. Carefully squeegee out the water from the centre and job done. As has been said use a very sharp set of scissors, and avoid touching the adhesive surface with your fingers.

Oh, and I use it both on French polish and oil finishes with absolutely no problem.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

Got it applied and it looks great. Thanks everyone.

Steve